Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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D74
02/08/2007 at 13:50
MT40 seem to be the replacement shoe. Pedals £25 and shoes £50.

Bargain.
02/08/2007 at 13:55
Anything up with the cheaper shoes? There are plenty here, but I wouldn't want to get something that wasn't fit for purpose.
D74
02/08/2007 at 14:18
I like the velcro strap as that keeps the laces out of the chain, but apart from that then should all be OK for what you want.

All I can say is that the shimano ones I've had have lasted amazingly well. I think that's something that people don't really say often enough, shimano stuff does last for a long long time, and in the case of these shoes then even if mistreated.
02/08/2007 at 14:21
Long-lasting is good. I don't want to be replacing things every few months if I can help it.

(This has been prompted by me wearing some fairly flimsy (non-cycling) shoes, and the buckles on the toeclips have worn a hole through the fabric.)
02/08/2007 at 14:34
SVT, following advice on here I bought some MTB shoes and spd pedals for my road bike so I could commute. The cleats are recessed so you can walk in them.

The shoes I bought were Specialized sport MTB and the sole seems fairly rigid. So its a bit of a trade off but for my standard probably not a problem.
02/08/2007 at 14:36
Cheers, BO. Good to know they're transferrable.

So... in what way are road shoes/pedals different, and better for racing?
02/08/2007 at 14:54
Road shoes normally have an absolutely stiff sole so the idea is you get better power transfer - I'm not convinced it makes any difference as you've muscles in your foot and if anything you could push your foot down a bit with a flexy sole. They are normally a fair bit lighter too and have a bigger platform so you don't get a hot spot where you are constantly pressing on the pedal - I actually think the stiff sole is more to do with spreading the pressure than anything else.
02/08/2007 at 14:57
road shoes have larger cleats and solid soles which make them awkward to walk on - the difference is however they give more pedalling power than MTB ones so are better for racing.....

MTB soles are designed for walking on - hence the recessed cleat - and some racing MTB shoes can take studs for extra grip when carrying the bike on muddy/soft surfaces...........you'll walk with a MTB much much more than with a roadie
02/08/2007 at 15:16
Ah - thanks for the explanations guys. Most informative.

I think I'd stick to MTB shoes then until I move from numpty to ponce.
02/08/2007 at 15:25
eventually you will end up with something like

MTB shoes - summer
MTB shoes - winter
MTB sandals - for very hot days
road shoes
triathlon shoes

+ sealskin socks for wet days
+ standard shoe covers - road and MTB
+ neoprene shoe covers - for cold winter days

various brands of cleats (MTB and road) as you experiment with different types

socks - don't start....

all so you can spin your legs like a demented idiot

welcome to the bike madhouse

D74
02/08/2007 at 15:27
The ones I was suggesting are very easy to walk in, indeed you could wear them around town al day if you so wished. MTB race ones are a bit stiffer, therefore more comfy for long periods on the bike, but less easy to walk in. Finally the road ones will have stiff carbon soles (or similar) that don't flex at all, but are like trying to walk with ski boots on, slip all over the place and totally unnatural - just try walking without bending your toes.
03/08/2007 at 18:50
I had a front wheel puncture on the chaingang last night, not a problem, I am not a complete numpty, but one of the smooth legged wonderboys said I should file the lips off the end of my dropouts.
Do I really want to be taking a file to the end of my nice carbon forks?
I understand I would be able to get the wheel out quicker but will this affect the warranty.
03/08/2007 at 19:23
Good question - I much prefer them with the lips filed off but I've no idea whether that would affect the warranty if they broke in some totally unconnected way. Do they have carbon dropouts - if not then I can't imagine it would be a problem - I don't think I'd risk it on my Look as the dropouts are carbon and part of the fork rather than something bonded on.
03/08/2007 at 19:55
Yes full carbon they are the look hsc
03/08/2007 at 20:13
Same as mine then - personally I wouldn't risk it you can just imagine a chunk of carbon falling off can't you, they aren't that bad anyway compared to some, the ones on my Principia you nearly have to unscrew the nut off the skewer to get the wheel out.
03/08/2007 at 20:14
In a road race the service car normally pushes you back on anyway, a short time trial and a puncture means you may as well not bother, a long one then I suppose the extra 15 seconds doesn't matter much.
03/08/2007 at 20:29
I am not that bothered about them in fact i'd never given it a thought before, but now it's just one more thing for the racer boys to rib me about cause me thinks they will be staying on.
I have a cannondale tandem and that's got some serious lips on it.
cougie    pirate
04/08/2007 at 00:17
I'd only bother filing the lips down if I was serious road racing where a few secs may mean getting back to the bunch or not.

I have seen QRs somehow become undone and still staying in without the lugs.

(my front wheel and down a 30mph hill - no idea how it became undone !)

Anyway, I'm lazy and can't be ar$ed filing things...
D74
04/08/2007 at 10:26
Filing it down will definately void your warranty. On alu you may not actually cause any problems with filing but I'd definately not touch carbon.

As Cougie says, I've seen plenty of loose QRs in transition whilst doing bike checks, and I've also had a couple come loose on me (lost a rear wheel on my MTB once), but the front on the commute was held in by the tabs.

For triathlons then I really can't se any advantage, other than to bow to pressure from people who in all honesty are just trying to make out they are in the same class as the top pros.

The tabs are there for a reason, and to me that's a safety feature I like.
04/08/2007 at 17:23
Mighty numpty questions.

Sorry about that.

Can you adapt MTB pedals and shoes to a road bike? I don't like my stiff shoes.

I am planning on doing my turbo training wearing my cycling shoes but doing my outside rides wearing running shoes, (as I am afraid to fall). Is it a good idea?

thank you
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