Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,221 to 11,240 of 11,990 messages
11/07/2011 at 23:01

Aero - full carbon - that way you can get lightweight AND aero.    You'd be chucking your money away spending big money on shallow rim lightweight wheels for a triathlon - Ksyriums etc are good all rounders for sportives and road racing but for £700 you want to be getting the right kit for the job.   If you don't race enough to feel you can justify that amount on what will be race day wheels wait for Planet X to do a sale or have a look second hand - lots of deep section tubular wheels have been very lightly used.   

12/07/2011 at 11:14
"I do seem to be about 20lbs over the weight limit for the HEDs"

you can get "fat bastard" HED builds which use more robust spokes and more of them - that's what I have.

"I am heavy but ride a bike well, corner well" - likewise at over 100kg. I lose out on the ups but more than hold my own on the downs and flats. MTB experience helps develop handling skills which you can put to good use on road rides - choosing the line, handling the speed, what happens if it gets twitchy etc. I keep banging on to people to get MTB'ing over winter to develop strength and handling skills as I reckon it does pay dividends for road riding.
16/08/2011 at 10:33

Boingg,

getting ready to fettle the bike and I'm in need of some more brake pads/blocks.  I think I've worked out that my Tektro R580 brakes are basically Shimano compatible.  Any advice on the make of brake pad?  Swisstop green seem to be well reviewed on Wiggle.

16/08/2011 at 10:41
don't have Shim kit so can't suggest but Swisstop usually come up well in ratings for all blocks. I stick with Campag blocks on my bikes as they work very well and are always highly rated
16/08/2011 at 11:13
FF - i have swiss stop green and they are definitely better than slightly cheaper pads or even dura ace ones for less brake fade and stopping.
16/08/2011 at 11:52
Thanks both, I'll see what Evan's (just round the corner from the office) have in stock.
16/08/2011 at 16:23
I've got a set of Swissstop green in at the moment - put them in for the Marmotte - they seem to work pretty well but can't say noticeably better than the Campag ones I've used before.   Then again I probably don't push the limits when it comes to braking - a mate of mine who is a mentalist when it comes to descending/cornering - he brakes late and hard - reckons the swissstops are a definite upgrade on what he was using before.    
Cona    pirate
16/08/2011 at 17:17
Question for you knowledgeable folks......

Out at the weekend on the TT bike and my deep section rear wheel started to make a very strange creaking noise. Rosey at one point thought it was going to blow up in his face!!!! That'll teach him to draft.

Striped the freehub off today and was dome dirty old grease inside so fully cleaned all components, carbon rim itself looks and sounds fine along with all spokes but that's when the good news ends.

The two bearings when turned by my finger isnt very smooth and on one side does sound and feel like it's grinding.

Any ideas on cost/past experience of getting these out snd changing them?

Cheers
31/08/2011 at 13:36

Boinggg (again),

another idiot question.  If I'm replacing brake cable should the inners and outers be replaced at the same time?  The rear brake cable seems to be dragging a bit and I was thinking of just replacing the inner...

31/08/2011 at 14:01

Depends - you could try just the inner but if the cable is the problem then I think the outer is more likely to be the culprit - I'd normally replace them both together.   If you are replacing the outers too make sure you have some decent cutters and take care to get a really clean cut.  

My son's cross bike wasn't shifting up at all (bought it cheap 2nd hand) and I assumed it needed a new right hand shifter - turned out whoever had cut the inner going into the sti had made a right pigs ear of cutting the cable - just trimmed it down a bit and it works perfectly.    One tip I've been told is to have a bit of inner cable inside when you cut to stop it crushing the outer but once cut you can open it up a bit with an mini screwdriver or something just to make sure - if you want a really good job then you can finish the end with a file just to get it square and take off any rough bits.    

31/08/2011 at 14:21
FF - I've just had the LBS put my road bars back on my race bike instead of my tri bars for IMWales and even though they could have reused the outers I asked them to replace both sets (gears and brakes) so that way I will hopefully get the best action from totally new bits. I'll probably squirt some teflon lube down the gear cable outers as well to help a bit further once I've tested them.

as pops says - decent cutters are big plus - I must get some....


31/08/2011 at 14:25
Thanks chaps (adds a few more items onto the shopping list...)
04/09/2011 at 16:10
Hey all, just wondering if anyone has any experience of bike fitting at Tri UK in Yeovil? If they know what they're doing or are of the 'Stand over the top tube.....yep that looks about right...' persuasion?
05/09/2011 at 12:03

Ok................ I need to stop my rear caliper twisting and ending up with one of the pads rubbing on one side of the wheel, I know how to tighten the bloody thing up but it works it's way loose quite quickly i.e a couple of hard pulls on the levers and it is back. had a look on Sheldons site and all the bits eeem to be there in the right place.

Just how tight can I do up the locking nut, Can I put a couple of knurled washers/sticky backe plastic/superglue.......... it is an aluminium frame so we are not talking crushed carbon here by the way 

05/09/2011 at 12:12
are they single or dual pivot calipers?
Edited: 05/09/2011 at 12:15
05/09/2011 at 17:35

good point , I cant see from here but they are these ones................ FSA Energy  (I-Beam)

05/09/2011 at 17:51
single then

best thing I can suggest is to look at their installation instructions. it looks like there's a centering screw adjuster which might help sort it and it looks as if you need to tighten the bolts up to a certain torque although 5-10Nm isn't a lot in reality. otherwise get a LBS to take a look

instructions here

Edited: 05/09/2011 at 17:56
Plum    pirate
05/09/2011 at 22:08
Ta muchly

I shall take the little git off and put it back on again and see if it makes any difference, if not I might upgrade,,,,,, any suggestions without going silly money
06/09/2011 at 01:07

Single pivot brakes are much worse than dual pivots for this kind of faff.   I think the solution is to tighten the retaining bolt just enough that the caliper doesn't move but not so much that the arms don't move freely enough - but it's ages since I used single pivots and someone more technical than I can confirm that or tell you the real solution and why it's a problem.   Google "single pivot caliper rubbing" though and you get loads of pages with the same thing. 

If it's a dual pivot then you can't be tightening the retaining bolt enough or maybe there is a serrated washer missing, the bolt is too long to tighten or something like that as they shouldn't go off centre.   

06/09/2011 at 08:52
I think those are dual pivot brakes, plum.  One side of the spacing washer should be serrated and that should stop the caliper rotating as it grips the frame.
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