Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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07/09/2011 at 13:27

Does anyone have any advice re: Bike lights? 

My commute is on lit suburban roads/ bike paths, however the local council has decided in it's wisdom to switch off half the street lights to save money   

Do I just go for the brightest I can afford or is it more complicated than that?


07/09/2011 at 13:38
brightest = most expensive usually.

if the roads are reasonably well lit then you don't need the brightest

many swear by Fenix torches which are very bright and good value for money and can be attached to bike bars. I use Exposure lights but I have no lights on some of my commute roads so need as much light as possible
07/09/2011 at 13:41

You need something bright enough for the conditions I suppose.   If it's several miles in the pitch black then  that's either going to be something expensive (maybe £150 plus - not really in touch with what decent lights cost now)  if you want to ride more than 10mph or else you are going to be shopping for cheap chinese LED torches.    I use the chinese torches backed up by a Use Joystick (the smallest model) - the USE is more reliable and has longer run time but for my eyes isn't enough to ride fast in the dark - the bigger models give the best of both worlds but aren't cheap.     

If it's just to be seen then any half decent LED light should do it.   

x- post with FB but basically same - the Use is an Exposure I think

Edited: 07/09/2011 at 13:42
07/09/2011 at 13:47
yep - Exposure is a USE brand

Fenix UK and the bike mount

Symes    pirate
07/09/2011 at 14:06
+1 for the Fenix, did me fine on that sort of commute
07/09/2011 at 14:13

Thanks, The Fenix ones look pretty good and aren't too expensive. I think it's more being visble to the traffic than actually needing to see the road. Although having seen the amount of stickers that are stuck to lamp posts telling me they're switched off might change my mind...

I'm going to buy a high vis jacket which will help the visibility issues.

29/09/2011 at 14:13

Hey guys, im thinking about upgrading my wheels for next year but have no real idea of what is or isn't a sensible investment.

I'm currently running shimano HS10s which came with the bike. Thus far they've been good and survived a winter of outdoor riding well.....was wondering if anyone could suggest what would be a sensible progression from this point

29/09/2011 at 15:11
I'm not sure what HS10s are -I know they do an RS10 which is a pretty basic shallow section wheel - I'm assuming yours are either those or something similar ?

The biggest question is what is your budget ?

The second question is what do you want from them ?

Cheerful Dave    pirate
29/09/2011 at 15:37

The "RS10" on the rim of those looks very much like "HS10", so that'll be them.

The only other question to add to pop's ones is what bike are they on?

Aside from that, there are wheels to suit any budget, but are you looking to replace your existing ones completely, or keep them as training wheels and get a second set to race on?

29/09/2011 at 17:02

Oops, yes, RS not HS.

They're currently on a Specialized Tarmac Comp. Though mine is the model before the one in that link and came with RS10s rather than the Aksium wheels that are mentioned in that review.

I haven't really set a budget as yet because I know very little about wheels so don't know what I would have to pay to realise any sort of return on the investment but the cheaper they are the more I have to spend on other stuff!

I was planning on using the RS10s over the winter and hen swapping over once the weather has improved and we're into the race season. I was thinking something with a deeper rim might be appropriate but hadn't got much further than that.....

Edited: 29/09/2011 at 17:04
29/09/2011 at 17:18
I'm assuming you're going to race on this bike??

if so, go with some deep rims - you'll get more return from them. downside can be price - a good quality pair like will set you back the best part of a grand although look at the Planet-X deep rims which do come in a lot cheaper. don't be tempted by carbon rims or tubs which just add extra £ and faff to the equation - stick with clinchers as they're as good and more manageable.

alternatively, if you don't want deep rims there are loads of good lightweight race wheels in that £500 to £1K a pair league from the likes of Fulcrum, Mavic, Easton, Ritchey etc
29/09/2011 at 17:22
Cosmic Carbones or something along those lines would fit the bill - standard aluminium rim with a carbon fairing so as strong as a normal wheel and normal braking but aero - the downsides are they aren't as light as an all carbon deep section wheel (but they aren't bad especially compared to cheaper wheels) and they aren't cheap. There are plenty available second hand though if you are willing to wait for the right set and take a chance.
29/09/2011 at 17:23

Yes FB wil be racing that bike, as much as i'd love to splash out on a TT bike it's just not going to happen for at least a couple of years.

Will investigate Planet-X. Was planning on staying with clinchers as Tubs have always struck me as alot of hassle. Thanks for the advice.

Plum    pirate
12/10/2011 at 18:22
Ok, another question

any recommendations as to puncture repair/gunk sprays Got some tubs and need some back up if I puncture. I realise it isnt going to help if i get a split etc bit something reliable just to seal the hole enough to allow me to inflate the tub enough to get home,

Who has had what that works like it says on the tin?
Cortina5    pirate
12/10/2011 at 21:31

Plum - I know of the stuff, but can't think what it is called.

Popsider/FB - do deep wheels make that much difference. Comparing Cosmic Elite (30mm) and Cosmic Carbone SL (52mm). The Carbones are 30g cheaper but twice the price. Does it really make that much difference??

12/10/2011 at 22:28
They'll make a difference - whether it's worth it depends on how much it means to you and how much money you have.

From what I've read 30mm rims aren't really significantly aero and the extra rim will add weight but they should be stiff and strong and Mavics are generally reliable in my experience - there's more to how fast a wheel is than the rim depth too. Have a look at some reviews on the internet.

plum - I used some Vittoria pitstop sealant and I reckon it would have worked if the tyre wasn't so badly cut - as it was it would still hold 50psi so could get you home. Saw some similar stuff in Decathlon the other week so that may be a cheaper source is there is one near you.
Edited: 12/10/2011 at 22:29
13/10/2011 at 10:38
Plum - you could also try Stan juice which is a latex juice that hardens on contact with air. it's used mainly with MTB wheels when you want to go tubeless so should work with tubs. however, unless you have a removable valve in the tub, you wouldn't be able to get it in as it needs to put in wet and before use.

works well with MTB tubeless though

otherwise as pops says - pitstop. I don't run tubs so haven't used it but know of many who says it works fine as a get you home. you may need to add some extra air into the tub with a pump to get a decent pressure after using it.

I still don't understand why people train with tubs though - save them for races and use standard clincher wheels for training. you can be more self sufficient with tubes when you get caught with a puncture
Edited: 13/10/2011 at 10:44
cougie    pirate
13/10/2011 at 10:43
I've used Tufo tubs with their sealant. Didn't stop me getting a flat on their second run out ! It does help with smaller holes - but this was a piece of metal in the tub.
13/10/2011 at 14:06
Planet X have an offer on Shimano wheels today - Ultegra tubeless down to £250 from 325 might be worth looking at if you run Shimano and just want a good quality everyday wheel - the Dura Ace equivalent wheels are supposed to be really good. I don't think you have to run them tubeless either - better check first though.
13/10/2011 at 15:40
you can usually run tubeless wheels with or without a tube. most users would recommend taking a tube as backup if the sealant doesn't work. the problem with tubeless wheels though is finding suitable tyres as the beads and walls need to be stiffer to get a good tubeless fit against the rim internals. not all tyres are recommended for tubeless - Hutchinson do a specific road version though that is rated well. I think it's the lack of choice for road tubeless which has led to them not catching on so well.

Edited: 13/10/2011 at 15:47
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