Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues
Meface - clearly know nuffink, but I'd say a 6:30 ride is well in scope given all the other variables. CBA checking all my times, but generally I'd do a sub 3 ride for a HIM, and a sub 6:30 for a full, but managed a 6 and a few seconds at Outlaw last year but it was the easiest IM ride course I've done. A sub 4:30 run sounds pretty optimistic for your first IM, especially if it's not your strong suit. It takes a while for most peeps to get the legs functioning, so your first couple of miles are going to be slower and wobblier that you might like. I've also been running longer than riding, but am less crap on the bike, so was happy with the 5:10 run at Outlaw having come off the bike in dire need of nutrition.
Thanks. Not worried about the first couple of miles, just the other 24. I seem to run quicker off the bike than I would normally run. My first 2 miles are normally around 7:45 even in a HIM. Then when the running gets a hold I slow to 9:00 min/mile.
Legs feel odd coming off the bike but I do seem to clip along. Do my best to slow down but never seems to work. Happens in training and racing so don't think it is the excitement of T2 and everyone shouting as there aren't that many supporters in my street. Training rides have been 90+ and at around 17mph average so not that different to race day (except I will have had a long wash first thing).
My 5k and 10k PBs are both done in Triathlons and wasn't that far away from a PB at Cowman for Half Mara (1:55 vs 1:50) which given it was hot I was happy with.
So think start the bike at 6:30 pace and maybe lift to 6:00 towards the 2nd lap if feeling good.
The run is a bit harder and easier - harder to plan and easier as no plan may be the best idea. Slow running is 09:30min/miles, fast running is 08:00 min/miles with not much in between. Did 9:1 Run/Walk at the weekend for 3 hrs and did 19.5 miles. I think that is the plan for race day. I just can't run any slower than 09:30 it is just too much effort to do the running action, I seem to be putting in too much effort for not much forward motion at anything slower
Back-up plan, run/walk 9:1 for a half mara or as far as I can then walk! This should be a 5 hour. Walking pace for the whole thing should be 6:00. A bit like the 2nd half of a double mara so I know I can walk on tired legs.
The run is what it is and I know I will be hanging on at the end. Just hope the desire and will lets me push on when it is hurting.
Swim is easy - one speed - swim
So the bike is the tricky one for me - balancing too hard and blowing my legs for any sort of run and leaving me only a walk with too slow and wasting time with reserves in the legs I can't make use of on the run. The longer I am out there the harder the day overall gets so need to be efficinet on the bike without blowing up.
I guess this is as close to a wibble you will get from me. Worrying about my plan and trying to use my resources efficiently.
Only other question, if I toss £700 at a set of race wheels what improvement might I see? Bike has Mavic CXP22s which are pretty basic but bomb proof.
Aero? e.g. Planet X 101s
Lightweight? e.g. Mavic Kyseriums
Willing to buy speed!
Bike is a Felt ZC frame. Full UHM Carbon frame.
It is mainly 105 groupset throughout. It was a Z35 but frame got upgraded. So a very nice bike but more sportive comfort than aero racer but does have tri-bars fitted.
Even 1mph at this distance makes a difference 20 mph vs 19mph saves 17 minutes overall. That is like a free 6 miles!
So the frame is worth a better set of wheels. Just whether it is worth it for the time saving, and whether to go lightweight race or aero. I am heavy but ride a bike well, corner well (compared to other triathletes - Cowman saw me give up a few places on some uphill and flat sections and get them back by carring more speed round corners.)
I do seem to be about 20lbs over the weight limit for the HEDs excluding clothing, bottles etc.
Aero - full carbon - that way you can get lightweight AND aero. You'd be chucking your money away spending big money on shallow rim lightweight wheels for a triathlon - Ksyriums etc are good all rounders for sportives and road racing but for £700 you want to be getting the right kit for the job. If you don't race enough to feel you can justify that amount on what will be race day wheels wait for Planet X to do a sale or have a look second hand - lots of deep section tubular wheels have been very lightly used.
getting ready to fettle the bike and I'm in need of some more brake pads/blocks. I think I've worked out that my Tektro R580 brakes are basically Shimano compatible. Any advice on the make of brake pad? Swisstop green seem to be well reviewed on Wiggle.
another idiot question. If I'm replacing brake cable should the inners and outers be replaced at the same time? The rear brake cable seems to be dragging a bit and I was thinking of just replacing the inner...
Depends - you could try just the inner but if the cable is the problem then I think the outer is more likely to be the culprit - I'd normally replace them both together. If you are replacing the outers too make sure you have some decent cutters and take care to get a really clean cut.
My son's cross bike wasn't shifting up at all (bought it cheap 2nd hand) and I assumed it needed a new right hand shifter - turned out whoever had cut the inner going into the sti had made a right pigs ear of cutting the cable - just trimmed it down a bit and it works perfectly. One tip I've been told is to have a bit of inner cable inside when you cut to stop it crushing the outer but once cut you can open it up a bit with an mini screwdriver or something just to make sure - if you want a really good job then you can finish the end with a file just to get it square and take off any rough bits.
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