Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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Kanga M    pirate
11/07/2011 at 15:24

Meface - clearly know nuffink, but I'd say a 6:30 ride is well in scope given all the other variables. CBA checking all my times, but generally I'd do a sub 3 ride for a HIM, and a sub 6:30 for a full, but managed a 6 and a few seconds at Outlaw last year but it was the easiest IM ride course I've done. A sub 4:30 run sounds pretty optimistic for your first IM, especially if it's not your strong suit. It takes a while for most peeps to get the legs functioning, so your first couple of miles are going to be slower and wobblier that you might like. I've also been running longer than riding, but am less crap on the bike, so was happy with the 5:10 run at Outlaw having come off the bike in dire need of nutrition.


meface    pirate
11/07/2011 at 16:29

Kanga,

Thanks. Not worried about the first couple of miles, just the other 24. I seem to run quicker off the bike than I would normally run. My first 2 miles are normally around 7:45 even in a HIM. Then when the running gets a hold I slow to 9:00 min/mile.

Legs feel odd coming off the bike but I do seem to clip along. Do my best to slow down but never seems to work. Happens in training and racing so don't think it is the excitement of T2 and everyone shouting as there aren't that many supporters in my street. Training rides have been 90+ and at around 17mph average so not that different to race day (except I will have had a long wash first thing).

My 5k and 10k PBs are both done in Triathlons and wasn't that far away from a PB at Cowman for Half Mara (1:55 vs 1:50) which given it was hot I was happy with.

So think start the bike at 6:30 pace and maybe lift to 6:00 towards the 2nd lap if feeling good.

The run is a bit harder and easier - harder to plan and easier as no plan may be the best idea. Slow running is 09:30min/miles, fast running is 08:00 min/miles with not much in between. Did 9:1 Run/Walk at the weekend for 3 hrs and did 19.5 miles. I think that is the plan for race day. I just can't run any slower than 09:30 it is just too much effort to do the running action, I seem to be putting in too much effort for not much forward motion at anything slower

Back-up plan, run/walk 9:1 for a half mara or as far as I can then walk! This should be a 5 hour. Walking pace for the whole thing should be 6:00.  A bit like the 2nd half of a double mara so I know I can walk on tired legs.

The run is what it is and I know I will be hanging on at the end. Just hope the desire and will lets me push on when it is hurting.

Swim is easy - one speed - swim

So the bike is the tricky one for me - balancing too hard and blowing my legs for any sort of run and leaving me only a walk with too slow and wasting time with reserves in the legs I can't make use of on the run. The longer I am out there the harder the day overall gets so need to be efficinet on the bike without blowing up.

I guess this is as close to a wibble you will get from me. Worrying about my plan and trying to use my resources efficiently.

 Thanks Guys

Meface

meface    pirate
11/07/2011 at 16:37

Only other question, if I toss £700 at a set of race wheels what improvement might I see? Bike has Mavic CXP22s which are pretty basic but bomb proof.

Aero? e.g. Planet X 101s 

Lightweight? e.g. Mavic Kyseriums

 Willing to buy speed!

Meface

11/07/2011 at 17:07
HED Jets.......

but if the money doesn't stretch, the PX deep rims

also depends on the rest of the setup though - if you have aerobars and a low position deep rims will help, but if it's a standard sit up and beg bike I'd just go lightweight with the Kysiriums or similar.

you won't get a huge speed gain from deep rims but there is some - again conditions will dictate. if you have strong winds on race day, deep rims can be a 'mare as you're fighting stability so probably lose more speed than you gain as your mind is focused on staying upright! I've nearly been blown off the road in strong gusty crosswinds with my HEDs.

I train on CXP22s but wouldn't race them - too heavy and slow

the best improvement you can get though is a) lose weight and b) get stronger on the bike. woodpecker helmets can also help gain a few minutes over 180Km but don't get one unless you have the rest of the aero gear and can justify it - otherwise you'll get called a cock.

11/07/2011 at 17:13
How much time can be saved by being properly aero if on a normal race bike the pace is about 17-18mph for the same effort?

Does that make sense? :
11/07/2011 at 17:24
perhaps 5kph?

I find when I use my race bike (it's not a TT bike but a custom Ti road bike fettled for tri) then the speed goes up about that much for the same effort versus my training bike and if I go aero. it also has smooth race tyres on which also helps - my race bike has Gatorskins.

but also bear in mind that my shape is the biggest wind braking factor so any gain is good!
11/07/2011 at 17:32
In old money that's nearly 20 mile, that's a lot!
Need to start saving, been looking at Lynskey T230's.
11/07/2011 at 17:44
there are lots of great Ti bikes out there if you search - Lynskey, Van Nicholas, Burls, etc but many fall below the mass market radar. I have an Omega Alchemy - the company is no longer around but the designer/builder is with Enigma Bikes now and they probably have the best range in the UK - very similar setups to my Omega. Their Effusion with the carbon triangle, forks and seatpost is very similar to my Alchemy. (missus has one as well)

Ti ain't cheap but it's going to last a very very long time if you don't trash it.
Edited: 11/07/2011 at 17:46
11/07/2011 at 17:58
I always wanted a Ti mtb but could never justify it. It's the longevity that appeals to me. I'd like one bike to do it all, train and race.
My chain came off a few weeks ago and chipped my chainstay by the BB and I thought I'd wrecked the frame, had it checked and luckily it hadn't.
Convinced me that Ti is the way to go.
The van nicholas blaze is nice too
meface    pirate
11/07/2011 at 20:15

Bike is a Felt ZC frame. Full UHM Carbon frame.

frameset

It is mainly 105 groupset throughout. It was a Z35 but frame got upgraded. So a very nice bike but more sportive comfort than aero racer but does have tri-bars fitted.

Even 1mph at this distance makes a difference 20 mph vs 19mph saves 17 minutes overall. That is like a free 6 miles!

So the frame is worth a better set of wheels. Just whether it is worth it for the time saving, and whether to go lightweight race or aero. I am heavy but ride a bike well, corner well (compared to other triathletes - Cowman saw me give up a few places on some uphill and flat sections and get them back by carring more speed round corners.)

I do seem to be about 20lbs over the weight limit for the HEDs excluding clothing, bottles etc.

Meface

11/07/2011 at 23:01

Aero - full carbon - that way you can get lightweight AND aero.    You'd be chucking your money away spending big money on shallow rim lightweight wheels for a triathlon - Ksyriums etc are good all rounders for sportives and road racing but for £700 you want to be getting the right kit for the job.   If you don't race enough to feel you can justify that amount on what will be race day wheels wait for Planet X to do a sale or have a look second hand - lots of deep section tubular wheels have been very lightly used.   

12/07/2011 at 11:14
"I do seem to be about 20lbs over the weight limit for the HEDs"

you can get "fat bastard" HED builds which use more robust spokes and more of them - that's what I have.

"I am heavy but ride a bike well, corner well" - likewise at over 100kg. I lose out on the ups but more than hold my own on the downs and flats. MTB experience helps develop handling skills which you can put to good use on road rides - choosing the line, handling the speed, what happens if it gets twitchy etc. I keep banging on to people to get MTB'ing over winter to develop strength and handling skills as I reckon it does pay dividends for road riding.
16/08/2011 at 10:33

Boingg,

getting ready to fettle the bike and I'm in need of some more brake pads/blocks.  I think I've worked out that my Tektro R580 brakes are basically Shimano compatible.  Any advice on the make of brake pad?  Swisstop green seem to be well reviewed on Wiggle.

16/08/2011 at 10:41
don't have Shim kit so can't suggest but Swisstop usually come up well in ratings for all blocks. I stick with Campag blocks on my bikes as they work very well and are always highly rated
16/08/2011 at 11:13
FF - i have swiss stop green and they are definitely better than slightly cheaper pads or even dura ace ones for less brake fade and stopping.
16/08/2011 at 11:52
Thanks both, I'll see what Evan's (just round the corner from the office) have in stock.
16/08/2011 at 16:23
I've got a set of Swissstop green in at the moment - put them in for the Marmotte - they seem to work pretty well but can't say noticeably better than the Campag ones I've used before.   Then again I probably don't push the limits when it comes to braking - a mate of mine who is a mentalist when it comes to descending/cornering - he brakes late and hard - reckons the swissstops are a definite upgrade on what he was using before.    
Cona    pirate
16/08/2011 at 17:17
Question for you knowledgeable folks......

Out at the weekend on the TT bike and my deep section rear wheel started to make a very strange creaking noise. Rosey at one point thought it was going to blow up in his face!!!! That'll teach him to draft.

Striped the freehub off today and was dome dirty old grease inside so fully cleaned all components, carbon rim itself looks and sounds fine along with all spokes but that's when the good news ends.

The two bearings when turned by my finger isnt very smooth and on one side does sound and feel like it's grinding.

Any ideas on cost/past experience of getting these out snd changing them?

Cheers
31/08/2011 at 13:36

Boinggg (again),

another idiot question.  If I'm replacing brake cable should the inners and outers be replaced at the same time?  The rear brake cable seems to be dragging a bit and I was thinking of just replacing the inner...

31/08/2011 at 14:01

Depends - you could try just the inner but if the cable is the problem then I think the outer is more likely to be the culprit - I'd normally replace them both together.   If you are replacing the outers too make sure you have some decent cutters and take care to get a really clean cut.  

My son's cross bike wasn't shifting up at all (bought it cheap 2nd hand) and I assumed it needed a new right hand shifter - turned out whoever had cut the inner going into the sti had made a right pigs ear of cutting the cable - just trimmed it down a bit and it works perfectly.    One tip I've been told is to have a bit of inner cable inside when you cut to stop it crushing the outer but once cut you can open it up a bit with an mini screwdriver or something just to make sure - if you want a really good job then you can finish the end with a file just to get it square and take off any rough bits.    

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