Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,281 to 11,300 of 11,977 messages
Rafiki    pirate
11/03/2012 at 21:27

Hi Cat

Not sure its a speed problem, but the saddle itself. In my (limited experience) saddles are normally comfortable after an hour or so or not. Alas it seems to be a case of a trial or error until you find one that works for you - which can be expensive. Much like shoes, you have to put several miles in before you know if they are right or not!

I managed 3 hours on my TT this afternoon wearing just a race tri suit, no problem - like you about 3 mph faster than the road bike, with no discomfort. I use a Specialised Romin (43cm) - which you're welcome to borrow for a ride.

Good luck, Raf

Cortina5    pirate
11/03/2012 at 21:38

Thanks. It may just need breaking in...

How long did it take to get up to 3 hrs?

Rafiki    pirate
11/03/2012 at 21:47

I've had no problem swapping between the road bike and the TT bike - but it sounds like I may be lucky in that respect. In fact I feel more comfortable on the TT. 

Was happily spending 5 - 6 hours a day in the saddle on a (ill-fitting hired) road bike in the Pyrenees last week, so 3 hours back on my baby today felt like bliss!!

12/03/2012 at 09:43
Cat 5 - it sounds like your barse just needs a bit more breaking in so stick with the current saddle and see how it goes. you may find going up a notch in training miles is causing pain due to more time on rough roads so there's more overall vibration. or it could be the shorts??
VTd    pirate
20/03/2012 at 15:32

Been banging on about a bike fit for a while now and finally found the time (and money) to get a retul fit done this morning.  Took about three hours and the results were amazing, to me anyway.

Everything was the opposite to what I was thinking.  The bars were lowered by all of the 3 x 20mm spacers, when I thought a shorther stem was needed and the bars raised.

The seat was also raised by at least that, and then pushed forward a few millimeters.

I thought I would need a new seat, but the technician told me to stick with it until I had a month in the new position.

I had just bought and fitted a set of clip ons, and between us we settled on a compromise between an ideal road position and aero position, although he told me I needed to try and spend more time on the clips ons. 

I've to go back to him a couple of times for feedback/minor adjustments, and also when I felt that I was ready to commit more into the aero position when he'll put me lower again at the front and further forward on the bike.

He suggested orthotics to help correct my knees throwing out, especially the left.  But he also warned against trying to fight it if it isn't causing me any problems, which it isn't.

I am swim/run tonight so won't really get the oppotunity to try out the changes until tomorrow.

Edited: 20/03/2012 at 15:39
20/03/2012 at 16:43
Bars lowered by 6cm, seat raised at least 6cm - really ?

Retul fits always raise the saddle (it seems) but that is A LOT
20/03/2012 at 19:00
Vt'd my retul fit did about the same and we added a longer stem and adamo tt saddle.

Anyone got any tips for getting used to getting aero whilst out on the road. I can do 3 hours on turbo but not taken tt bike out for real yet.

Also I can run faster after being on tt bike on turbo then qc to run - is that normal?
VTd    pirate
20/03/2012 at 21:04

Popsider, I also couldn't believe it.  The guy who fitted me (that sounds wrong) told me the same as you that his own retul fit had him raise his saddle 10cm and he had raced to a decent standard for 8 years on the same bike. 

After travelling not more than ten yards on his new setting he stopped and raised it up again.  Over the period of a few weeks he gradually raised it in increments to the retul setting.  He told me that if it feels painful I've to stop and drop it back.  Something to do with the hamstrings needing to adapt and lengthen.

To be honest I'm not overly surprised he made the changes as I had set it up myself and I haven't the first clue.  The handlebar changes were surprising though as I thought maybe a raise, or at the most a drop of one spacer. 

I want to put a spacer back in making the drop 40mm, although he thinks if I intend using the clip ons that I should be making the most of that aero position.  Otherwise I'm just carrying them as excess baggage.

I'll try this out for a while, and after that if it still feels wrong then we'll revisit the bar height.

TJ, sounds like you've cracked it.  I still stumble along for 4 miles or so before any feeling or rhythm returns.

Cortina5    pirate
21/03/2012 at 02:25
TJ - just get out and do it. Should be easy after 3hrs on the turbo!
VTd    pirate
21/03/2012 at 19:36

I didn't feel very comfortable on my new settings, especially on the clip ons, which made me feel cramped and sore after a very short time.   I'm right over the front, being able to see the hub in both aero and hood positions and feel that is a bit extreme for my old creaky back.

I'm for putting a 20mm spacer back in tomorrow, see how that goes and might even consider two spacers.  

In saying that, does it make sense that I feel more powerful and faster in this new position?  If so should I perservere in the hope that I'll settle into it?  Or perhaps should I look for a further compromise by loosing a bit of power/speed for comfort?

Sorry, there's three questions in that.

Popsider, thanks for questioning the changes as it's caused me to think all might not be quite as straightforward and as right as it should.

21/03/2012 at 19:47
Evening, I managed to get out on my aero bars after several hours on the Turbo. It's something I'll have to get used to as it's all a bit unstable at the mo! Having spent some time fiddling with my saddle it appeared I hadn't tightened up the stem enough so by the time I got to work it felt like I was riding a chopper!! What a numpty!!
Can anyone recommend decent handlebar tape? I'd like something with a reasonable amount of padding as I'm doing LEJOG next month as my Outlaw training so will need some comfort!
Cheers, Siggy
21/03/2012 at 22:00
A lot of the pros used a double layer of padded tape for races over cobbles. That might be worth trying.
Plum    pirate
21/03/2012 at 22:02
you can actually buy gel pads to go under the bits that take the mist abuse.... I put mine along the top of the bars and on the inside and the bottom of the drops,,,, benefit is that they are reuseable....

Anyone know anyone with an ADAMO saddle for sale.....road or TT preferably....
25/03/2012 at 22:40
Another issue from today. I'm getting better at getting aero. However, that in itself presents another problem which is probably best answered by some one who is, shall I say, built for comfort rather than speed! When I go low my knees tend to rise up into my ample gut! Apart from the obvious, 'lose weight fatty' what's the best way to prevent this? Raise the seat a tad? I feel like the seat needs to go a bit higher and tilted forwards more, for comfort, but am conscious that may lead to my hips 'rocking' side to side due to the increase in height of the seat!
Thank you!
Dustboy    pirate
25/03/2012 at 22:54
Not only that, it will alter your basic riding "shape" which may not be as good for your back and rocking on the saddle is not good either.

With the kind of miles you will (should) be putting in now, the gut issue should resolve itself. Especially as you are a mere slip of a youngster. Let me know though, coz I need to lose my gut too.

Re handlebar tape, Dave stuck some gel pads under mine, no issues at all. Can you get gel pads for your arse Plum, coz mine feels like it's been sculpted with a Black & Decker sander.

Ref the Adamo saddle, no, but I raised my long term loan Selle San Marco Triathgel Aspide up half a cm and the dead knob problem has reduced and it was well getting on my nerves before.

Note to self, about time to stick the Aero Bars back on then.

Plum    pirate
26/03/2012 at 09:13
I have got an Adamo on the TT and it is the dogs cohones ...... rather than keep faffing swapping it back and forth I wanted to get another one but am a tad averse to paying the full wack if I can help it being a tight git
JD.    pirate
27/03/2012 at 07:54
mtb puncture advice needed. i keep on getting punctures every time i venture onto a hedged trail. any solution to this other than avoiding said trails? different tyres? anyway way to avoid/minimise punctures? never used to get punctures in my road cycling days so it's starting to pish me off a bit, especially sorting them out in the dark.

27/03/2012 at 09:23
"venture onto a hedged trail"

thorns or shards of wood I guess??

2 possible solutions but neither will absolutely prevent punctures

1. get new tyres with kevlar beading (if you don't have them) as they do offer better protection over steel beading

2. change to tubeless tyres that use a latex sealant like Stan Juice. the sealant will seal small punctures - P has these on her MTB and she punctures less than me. you can use your current wheels, you just need to get the bits and pieces and some new suitable tyres (Schwalbe are highly recommended for tubeless).

JD.    pirate
27/03/2012 at 12:41

ta FB, yeah it was thorns again and again unfortunately.

 thanks for the advice, i'll take a look at those options.


27/03/2012 at 13:12
punctures are usually more frequent after the hedges have been flailed so spring or autumn are always the worst times.

I'm slowly building a 2nd MTB and will go with tubeless this time from scratch. Stan's No Tubes now also sell their own specced wheels (ZTR) which I'll go with (see what the price is like first). you can however use standard rims
Edited: 27/03/2012 at 13:13
11,281 to 11,300 of 11,977 messages
Previously bookmarked threads are now visible in "Followed Threads". You can also manage notifications on these threads from the "Forum Settings" section of your profile settings page to prevent being sent an email when a reply is made.
Forum Jump  

RW Forums