Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues
Ok................ I need to stop my rear caliper twisting and ending up with one of the pads rubbing on one side of the wheel, I know how to tighten the bloody thing up but it works it's way loose quite quickly i.e a couple of hard pulls on the levers and it is back. had a look on Sheldons site and all the bits eeem to be there in the right place.
Just how tight can I do up the locking nut, Can I put a couple of knurled washers/sticky backe plastic/superglue.......... it is an aluminium frame so we are not talking crushed carbon here by the way
good point , I cant see from here but they are these ones................ FSA Energy (I-Beam)
Single pivot brakes are much worse than dual pivots for this kind of faff. I think the solution is to tighten the retaining bolt just enough that the caliper doesn't move but not so much that the arms don't move freely enough - but it's ages since I used single pivots and someone more technical than I can confirm that or tell you the real solution and why it's a problem. Google "single pivot caliper rubbing" though and you get loads of pages with the same thing.
If it's a dual pivot then you can't be tightening the retaining bolt enough or maybe there is a serrated washer missing, the bolt is too long to tighten or something like that as they shouldn't go off centre.
Does anyone have any advice re: Bike lights?
My commute is on lit suburban roads/ bike paths, however the local council has decided in it's wisdom to switch off half the street lights to save money
Do I just go for the brightest I can afford or is it more complicated than that?
You need something bright enough for the conditions I suppose. If it's several miles in the pitch black then that's either going to be something expensive (maybe £150 plus - not really in touch with what decent lights cost now) if you want to ride more than 10mph or else you are going to be shopping for cheap chinese LED torches. I use the chinese torches backed up by a Use Joystick (the smallest model) - the USE is more reliable and has longer run time but for my eyes isn't enough to ride fast in the dark - the bigger models give the best of both worlds but aren't cheap.
If it's just to be seen then any half decent LED light should do it.
x- post with FB but basically same - the Use is an Exposure I think
Thanks, The Fenix ones look pretty good and aren't too expensive. I think it's more being visble to the traffic than actually needing to see the road. Although having seen the amount of stickers that are stuck to lamp posts telling me they're switched off might change my mind...
I'm going to buy a high vis jacket which will help the visibility issues.
Hey guys, im thinking about upgrading my wheels for next year but have no real idea of what is or isn't a sensible investment.
I'm currently running shimano HS10s which came with the bike. Thus far they've been good and survived a winter of outdoor riding well.....was wondering if anyone could suggest what would be a sensible progression from this point
The "RS10" on the rim of those looks very much like "HS10", so that'll be them.
The only other question to add to pop's ones is what bike are they on?
Aside from that, there are wheels to suit any budget, but are you looking to replace your existing ones completely, or keep them as training wheels and get a second set to race on?
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