Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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03/01/2012 at 17:04
nice one!! as they say "that's going to cost"!

you will need at least a rear hanger or you won't have any way of connecting the wheel to the bike! I assume it's a replaceable rear hanger?? if not, then you're pretty bolloxed if it's a carbon frame - if it's alu or steel, then it might be repairable by a good bike mechanic/builder.

assuming you have a replaceable hanger, then if you could replace the standard style with a rear facing one, then you could move towards a singlespeed BUT you'll need to use spacers on your hub to position a rear ring. if you can't get a rear facing hanger fitted, then you can still use a downward facing one (standard type for derailleurs) and replace the mech with a chain tensioner which will take up the slack in the chain. that "might" work with 2 rings at the front if the spacing isn't too wide - alternatively replace the setup with one ring, although you'll need a different BB (one with square taper fittings) and a new suitable crank. I don't think (but I could be wrong) that an external BB setup will take a single chainring.

there's plenty of info and videos on t'web of how to convert a standard setup to a single speed - Charlie the Bikemonger is a good place to start with his "how to" video - he sells all you need for the conversion. I used him when I converted my old frame into a SS.
Edited: 03/01/2012 at 17:09
03/01/2012 at 17:08
Yes what Cougs said - the answer is no you can't - because you'll need something to take up the slack in the chain when you stick it on the small chainring.

You should be able to get a mech hanger and mech fairly cheap though - maybe not an exact replacement but bottom of the range mechs aren't too much.

x-post - I'm thinking the dropout is OK FB but yes modern hangers do go inside the quick release don't they so if it's removed totally it might affect how the wheel clamps to the frame. I bet if it's snapped that it's snapped below that though.

Basically it's as cheap to put it right as faff around converting it isn't it - now if the shifters had stopped working too that might be different.
Edited: 03/01/2012 at 17:18
03/01/2012 at 17:29
you're probably right on the price thing pops - if all else is fine, then just get the rear end sorted, or you're basically spending money on a whole new setup. you wouldn't need intergrated shifters for a SS either so that's more money needed just to get simple brake levers fitted (I went with straight bars and BMX levers)
The Silent Assassin    pirate
03/01/2012 at 20:01

Have just stripped the half of the hanger thats left, off the bike and you can't clamp the wheel back in place without it, but, that said the hanger is def a replaceable part. Got to go to a giant dealer to get one.

The Silent Assassin    pirate
04/01/2012 at 13:56
Back from the shop, new hanger ordered 3-5 days delivery and only £10
04/01/2012 at 14:08
plus new mech and chain plus repairs....

but it could have been a damn sight more expensive if it was a non-replaceable hanger!

one of the guys on our Colombia trip had a pretty new carbon Pinarello kitted with carbon Zipp 404's - he'd not factored in "roads can vary from smooth to almost non existent". the rear wheel lasted 3 days before it fell apart, followed by his rear chainstay snapping a day later. the trip cost him a damn sight more than he bargained for!!
Edited: 04/01/2012 at 14:09
05/01/2012 at 16:19
Numpty question about bike fit.

On a standard road bike how do you know if the bars are positioned correctly for you? My cheapo second hand Carrera feels low, it’s probably too small a frame. I get tension in my triceps while riding on the hoods and after a few hours my upper shoulders and neck go a bit stiff.

Not sure if this is me being a newbie wanting a sit up a beg position or likely a poor fit?
cougie    pirate
05/01/2012 at 16:22
Very rough guide - in your riding position - can you see the front hub ?

If the bike fits you - the handlebars usually block out the hub.
05/01/2012 at 16:29
good advice from cougs - and also check the hoods position.

when you have your hands on the hoods they should be roughly flat but if your hands are pointing too far downwards, then that can create strain on the triceps and around the shoulders. they can often drop if the stem bolts holding the bar aren't tight enough so the bar rotates slowly downwards when riding
05/01/2012 at 20:11
I have a question about helmets
I got a Giro Monza for Christmas, but I think it makes me look a bit like a mushroom () so am thinking of returning it and getting a different one. I had a quick peek at the Boardman one and I'm tempted (it's less round), but thought I'd seek the wisdom of the bike gods before going any further....
06/01/2012 at 08:57
Thanks Guys,

Hmmm I'm not sure about this... I can just see the hub in front of the bars!

Maybe it's just me being new to road bikes. If I move the seat back then the hub disappears behind the bars but I get even further stretched out and more weight on the arms. I'm gonna try and test ride a few bikes see what they feel like in comparison.
06/01/2012 at 09:42
crux - it's all about playing with the setup to find what suits. moving the seat back and fore, seatpost up and down, changing stem lengths (shorter or longer), bar rotation etc. these are all little things that can be altered and just a small change can make a big difference. if you're still not certain, go with the bike to a decent bike shop and ask for their professional advice - they can check the size is right and help you get settled.

HH - don't fret about the look - we all look stupid in helmets in the main. as long as it fits, is comfy and does the job it's money well spent. fwiw, I wear a Spiuk helmet as it's the most comfy I've tried. have you checked the Catlike deals on Sportspursuit???
Edited: 06/01/2012 at 09:52
11/01/2012 at 09:44

Quick question: MrA has managed to burst two inner tubes in two days. 1st, old tube - bike has been in the cellar for a couple of weeks. Pumped it up and then it exploded in the middle of the night   taking the tyre with it.(though it was the change in temp from cellar to house, then house changing temp over night?)

Yesterday - new tube and tyre samething happened but about an hour after pumping it up.

Does he not know his own strength and pumping them up too much or could there be another cause?

11/01/2012 at 09:54
Don't know for sure - sometimes if you pinch the tube fitting it it'll explode soon after pumping it up - sometimes a faulty tube. For the first one if the tube had been in there ages then it suggests neither of those - so maybe it had degraded over time - not sure if that happens - it does with tyres so I imagine it can with tubes - or if he's using a track pump maybe he just pumped it up too high - I think you would have to have the psi really high for temp to make a difference.
11/01/2012 at 10:32
not much else to add to what pops has said - check the quality of the tubes and tyres, invest in some new ones if needed, make sure they are fitted properly, and check the air pressure using a track pump.

if he's going beyond 120psi, then it's too high - I run mostly at 100psi and I'm over a 100kg.
11/01/2012 at 11:02

Got two Numpty questions; I've got myself a Zipp 404/808 clincher combo. Getting new TT bike also.

1) The rear is Shimano , will all SRAM fit also?

2) Do I need any particularly special type of tube / tire for the wheels?

Thanks

cougie    pirate
11/01/2012 at 11:26
Sram cassettes will work on shimano gears.

Get some 23mm Conti GP4000s tyres and whatever tubes you like to go inside so long as they have a long enough valve and are the right 700x 23 size.
11/01/2012 at 12:12
or Michelin Pro3's......

Zipp recommend 21mm tyres for their clincher wheels but 23mm will still be fine. any good quality clincher tyre will do the trick but go with Kevlar beaded folding ones as they are slightly more resilient than wire beaded.

and for the 808 you might need a valve extender due to the rim depth. there are 2 methods - either an extender that screws straight onto the existing valve but remember to leave the valve open, or it won't blow up! and use some PTFE plumbers tape on the thread to get a better seal. the alternative is to use tyres with a removable valve core - screw a specific extender onto that and then the valve core back into the extender. that means you're moving the valve to the end of the extender unlike the 1st method where it's still in the original spot. both have their pros and cons but essentially work well

cougie    pirate
11/01/2012 at 14:44
And if you're taking spare tubes out with you - make sure the valves are deep enough ! My mates fallen foul of that before now.
Plum    pirate
11/01/2012 at 14:47
I havent...... ever........ of course
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