Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,301 to 11,320 of 12,108 messages
11/01/2012 at 23:00
Thanks guys !
12/01/2012 at 06:22
would you reccomend fitting some tri - bars? I have a standard road bike and have used it for shorter tri's and long sportives etc but thinking of investing in some tri bars. Budget is low so first any reccomendations and secondaly, is it worth it? cheers
12/01/2012 at 09:34
is it worth it?? yes - once you've got the set up right. just going more aero will gain you a couple of kph speed for the same effort.

there are many clip on bars out there - just go for ones that suit the budget and look right. the ones most prefer are Profile Carbon bars - various designs - but they ain't the cheapest.

check out e-bay and see what's around

technically you are not supposed to use tribars in sportives if you read the rules, but many do. if you're riding in a pack as can happen in a sportive, don't use the bars as you need more control than being on them offers. solo fine pack no.
13/01/2012 at 12:20
Tubes exploding on their own is usually rim tape issues in my experience if the tape is allowing the tube to bulge into the spoke hole (especially on modern semi deep sections then they go on their own randomly.)

The Silent Assassin    pirate
13/01/2012 at 16:19

I'm with Bassy on that one, Mrs SA always get flats even when bike left in hall, replaced rim tape, no more flats

VTd    pirate
16/01/2012 at 08:36

This has probably been asked before but the thread is very long.

I was a bit rough when setting up my LHS tiagra shifter last night and now it'll shift but won't index, jumping back to the small ring straight away.  I took it off and part dismantled it to discover I have damaged the inners so I need to purchase a new shifter.

Here's my question (s):

1.  Before turning into a ham fisted idiot I noticed that although the front ring is a double, the shifter  clicked three times between shifts.  Would this be normal for a double x 9, or have the front rings been changed from triple to double by the previous owner?

2.  Can I take the opportunity to fit a 105 or Ultegra shifter on the LHS?  I would buy the shifters as a pair, but would look to use the LHS for now and change the rear cassette to a 10 when the opportunity arose.

Aplogies for the terminology, but I really am a bike numpty.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
16/01/2012 at 09:31

If they changed to a double without changing the shifter you'd probably have had dodgy shifting so you'd have noticed.  I don't think the number of clicks is related at all, but it's been a while since I've used Shimano on the road.

But I do know that yes, you could put a 105 or Ultegra (or Dura Ace, if you want) shifter for the front and leave the back as Tiagra 9 speed for now.  Parkers have £100 off ultegra 10 speed double levers right now.

16/01/2012 at 09:45
before you change the LHS shifter, have you checked that the cage and limit screw are set up correctly on the front mech?? if it's shifting into the large ring, but dropping back straight away, that could be down to the cage setup and not the shifter.

as a suggestion take it to the LBS and get them to check it out if you're not absolutely sure what you're doing
VTd    pirate
16/01/2012 at 16:04

Thanks for the heads up CD and FB and as usual, sterling advice. 

It's defo the shifter FB as broken bits fell out when I took it apart.   You are spot on in your diagnosis though as that's what I believe broke it in the first place.  I'm sure I set the screws wrongly and tried shifting against one of them (very roughly I'm ashamed to say).

It's a learning process for me and although a stupid expensive mistake, it's not one I'll repeat.

16/01/2012 at 16:21
ah - if bits fell out then yes, that would make me think the shifter is borked

the old "hit it with a hammer" approach isn't always the best..
16/01/2012 at 21:10
Never ever take a shimano shifter to bits.
VTd    pirate
16/01/2012 at 21:23

lol popsider, I wouldn't normally (well, I probably would actually ), but I knew I'd already goosed it. 

I picked up a replacement LHS tiagra shifter on flea bay tonight for less than £40 so it was an expensive cockup, but could have been a lot more. 

I was a marine engineer on steam driven ships in my previous life, so the, 'Hit it harder with the biggest hammer you got' approach is ingrained in my nature.

I now have to learn how to replace the offending item....carefully!

16/01/2012 at 21:35

hi all,rear wheel punctured today, dropped the wheel out changed the tube with no problem and carried on with my ride but the gears started jumping about......what did i do???....what do i need to do now???

grateful for any help.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
16/01/2012 at 22:02

Check where the cable to the rear derailleur is going, you might have caught it somewhere when you changed the wheel which would muck up changing gears.  Check the wheel is in the dropouts properly, especially if there are any washers on the axle (there shouldn't be, but you never know).  Worst case you've managed to bend the derailleur but you'd probably have noticed knocking it that hard.

16/01/2012 at 22:04

Anybody got or know anything about the FELT B16? Thinking of that or the Canondale Slice 105 for my first TT.

Everybody seems to be raving about the spec of the Felt saying that it's more like intermediate bike than entry.

Anybody got any thoughts on these bikes?


M...eldy    pirate
16/01/2012 at 22:09
M...eldy wrote (see)
and while we are talking turbos and tyres et.c

I have an old tacx (I think, no distinguishing marks on it) it has a variable resistance lever

For as long as I have had it, it has shredded tyres, fed up with bits of shredded rubber all over the floor I finally brought a turbo tyre.  Once I had the feeling back in my thumbs I tried it out ...

It has started to shred the turbo tyre, to the extent that the tyre has started to flatten out in the middle, the wheel/tyre sits 'just' on the wheel and obviously a little bit more once I am added into the equation, the wheel is smooth and I cant see why it is doing this

Any ideas??
Cheerful Dave    pirate
17/01/2012 at 10:48

Seems odd melds.  It could be that the tyre actually needs to sit a bit firmer on the turbo roller, if it's slipping at all you'd damage the tyre.  Does the wheel sit straight on the roller (i.e. is the tyre at 90 degrees to the roller axis)? - it should be fine but if the tyre is at a slight angle to the roller you'd also damage the tyre as it would effectively be constantly slipping along the roller, so to speak. 

Is the rear wheel true?  Slightly out wouldn't be a problem on a turbo, but if it's a very old dodgy wheel it could be the problem.

Get someone to check it when you're on it, it could be that when you're on it one side of the turbo flexes more than the other which mucks up the setup.

Re-reading the above, it's probably not much help but you never know...

Plum    pirate
17/01/2012 at 15:30
or you have screwed the pressure on the thumbscrew up too much down at the roller end........, sounds like it is pressing on the tyre too hard
Edited: 17/01/2012 at 15:31
17/01/2012 at 15:42
Always a bit of a mystery - turbos do wear tyres a bit faster than the road but shouldn't be excessive. I'm tempted by Dave's suggestion there must be some lateral movement going on so in effect the tyre is being scrubbed sideways and that's what is wearing it.

Is it just gravity pressing it onto the roller or is the roller pressed onto it ?

Mine is clamped at the rear quick release and seems fine - but don't some clamp at the bottom bracket or do some still clamp at the front - maybe those are more prone to tyre wear ??
Edited: 17/01/2012 at 15:43
17/01/2012 at 17:37

Which colour gilet would you choose out of these gilets ?

Or maybe I should just get a black one of another make ?

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