Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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29/09/2011 at 17:02

Oops, yes, RS not HS.

They're currently on a Specialized Tarmac Comp. Though mine is the model before the one in that link and came with RS10s rather than the Aksium wheels that are mentioned in that review.

I haven't really set a budget as yet because I know very little about wheels so don't know what I would have to pay to realise any sort of return on the investment but the cheaper they are the more I have to spend on other stuff!

I was planning on using the RS10s over the winter and hen swapping over once the weather has improved and we're into the race season. I was thinking something with a deeper rim might be appropriate but hadn't got much further than that.....

Edited: 29/09/2011 at 17:04
29/09/2011 at 17:18
I'm assuming you're going to race on this bike??

if so, go with some deep rims - you'll get more return from them. downside can be price - a good quality pair like will set you back the best part of a grand although look at the Planet-X deep rims which do come in a lot cheaper. don't be tempted by carbon rims or tubs which just add extra £ and faff to the equation - stick with clinchers as they're as good and more manageable.

alternatively, if you don't want deep rims there are loads of good lightweight race wheels in that £500 to £1K a pair league from the likes of Fulcrum, Mavic, Easton, Ritchey etc
29/09/2011 at 17:22
Cosmic Carbones or something along those lines would fit the bill - standard aluminium rim with a carbon fairing so as strong as a normal wheel and normal braking but aero - the downsides are they aren't as light as an all carbon deep section wheel (but they aren't bad especially compared to cheaper wheels) and they aren't cheap. There are plenty available second hand though if you are willing to wait for the right set and take a chance.
29/09/2011 at 17:23

Yes FB wil be racing that bike, as much as i'd love to splash out on a TT bike it's just not going to happen for at least a couple of years.

Will investigate Planet-X. Was planning on staying with clinchers as Tubs have always struck me as alot of hassle. Thanks for the advice.

Plum    pirate
12/10/2011 at 18:22
Ok, another question

any recommendations as to puncture repair/gunk sprays Got some tubs and need some back up if I puncture. I realise it isnt going to help if i get a split etc bit something reliable just to seal the hole enough to allow me to inflate the tub enough to get home,

Who has had what that works like it says on the tin?
IronCat5    pirate
12/10/2011 at 21:31

Plum - I know of the stuff, but can't think what it is called.

Popsider/FB - do deep wheels make that much difference. Comparing Cosmic Elite (30mm) and Cosmic Carbone SL (52mm). The Carbones are 30g cheaper but twice the price. Does it really make that much difference??

12/10/2011 at 22:28
They'll make a difference - whether it's worth it depends on how much it means to you and how much money you have.

From what I've read 30mm rims aren't really significantly aero and the extra rim will add weight but they should be stiff and strong and Mavics are generally reliable in my experience - there's more to how fast a wheel is than the rim depth too. Have a look at some reviews on the internet.

plum - I used some Vittoria pitstop sealant and I reckon it would have worked if the tyre wasn't so badly cut - as it was it would still hold 50psi so could get you home. Saw some similar stuff in Decathlon the other week so that may be a cheaper source is there is one near you.
Edited: 12/10/2011 at 22:29
13/10/2011 at 10:38
Plum - you could also try Stan juice which is a latex juice that hardens on contact with air. it's used mainly with MTB wheels when you want to go tubeless so should work with tubs. however, unless you have a removable valve in the tub, you wouldn't be able to get it in as it needs to put in wet and before use.

works well with MTB tubeless though

otherwise as pops says - pitstop. I don't run tubs so haven't used it but know of many who says it works fine as a get you home. you may need to add some extra air into the tub with a pump to get a decent pressure after using it.

I still don't understand why people train with tubs though - save them for races and use standard clincher wheels for training. you can be more self sufficient with tubes when you get caught with a puncture
Edited: 13/10/2011 at 10:44
cougie    pirate
13/10/2011 at 10:43
I've used Tufo tubs with their sealant. Didn't stop me getting a flat on their second run out ! It does help with smaller holes - but this was a piece of metal in the tub.
13/10/2011 at 14:06
Planet X have an offer on Shimano wheels today - Ultegra tubeless down to £250 from 325 might be worth looking at if you run Shimano and just want a good quality everyday wheel - the Dura Ace equivalent wheels are supposed to be really good. I don't think you have to run them tubeless either - better check first though.
13/10/2011 at 15:40
you can usually run tubeless wheels with or without a tube. most users would recommend taking a tube as backup if the sealant doesn't work. the problem with tubeless wheels though is finding suitable tyres as the beads and walls need to be stiffer to get a good tubeless fit against the rim internals. not all tyres are recommended for tubeless - Hutchinson do a specific road version though that is rated well. I think it's the lack of choice for road tubeless which has led to them not catching on so well.

Edited: 13/10/2011 at 15:47
Plum    pirate
13/10/2011 at 17:38
Thanks peeps..............tis only for the race wheels but I seem to be gaining sets by the day
IronCat5    pirate
14/10/2011 at 09:31

I have a 'parts-bin' road bike (Mr. W's description) and have recently been considering a Cube Arium Pro - TT geometry bike with drops and aerobars. Since then I narrowly missed out on Dr.M's Stealth which has now got me considering something pointy; the Cube Arium Race or a PX Stealth.

The Cube is very well spec'd, but Alu, and £600 up on the Stealth. But the Stealth is carbon, but in it's base spec isn't that great spec'd. For the same cost as the Aerium I could get the Stealth and some bling wheels (50/50 or 50/82), but they'd be tubs. Seems cheap deep clinchers don't exists at that price point, unless shipped from China.

Now the confession. At a recent Dorney Oly I posted a 1:21 bike split though I wasn't racing and struggled to maintain pace in to wind due to poor positioning. I hadn't ridden for about 2 weeks, and only did ~40miles that month before hand (have been concentrating on marafun training).

So am I punching well above my weight looking at the above bikes, and which to go for (assuming both fit well)? Road bike not an option.

My LBS has been superb of late (Cube stockist).

Plum    pirate
16/11/2011 at 20:30
Ok............ simples really I assume but how much of a faff is it to fit valve extenders,,,,,,

Cat
I have a Cube Aerium Pro and a Stealth, the weight difference is very noticeable. Advice from those that know said the difference in spec between the Pro and the Race was negligible and not worth the etra £400 or so more it costs, Stealth has hardly been out the door yet so will have to wait for a report on that sorry......
Had the Cube for 18 months and it has been rock solid, only problem that in have noticed and apparently it is a known defect is the BB is shite and doesnt last anywhere near as long as it should
IronCat5    pirate
16/11/2011 at 20:53

PTFE tape and some luck?

I'm hoping the Cube is heavier? Its a moot point anyhow. I popped into PX t'other week for a look see, and came out avec Stealth.Just in time to store it for winter...
Plum    pirate
16/11/2011 at 21:30
Sorry...... I nicked Dr M's

The Stealth is a lot lighter and the Cube aint heavy at all.... good job I am a fat munter or might get blown away
Edited: 16/11/2011 at 21:31
Plum    pirate
16/11/2011 at 21:51
OK been looking ...... for 100's is is best to use 2 x 40's and join them together good and proper or do they do 80's and if so would they reach?
Cheerful Dave    pirate
16/11/2011 at 23:26

Plum, are you talking about the extenders where you remove the valve core and fit it to the extension, or the ones where you leave the core in place and have to leave the little locknut on the valve undone?  Either way they're fairly easy, a little PTFE tape and do them up good & tight and they'll seal OK.  Just make sure you get the ones you want because they all look fairly similar in the packet.  Vittoria do their own extensions as well for their tubs, where the extension comes with its own valve and replaces the whole valve stem.

They do 80 extensions somewhere.  If you're adding 80 (or 2x40) to the existing valve stem you should be OK for 100.  If you've already got the tub & wheel you should be able to measure how much extra you need, but I'm guessing that since you've asked the question you don't have them yet!

Cat5, what wheels did you get with that?  If you want to try out some deep wheels with it I have a set of 82/101s that have been gathering dust since Gladys smoked the IMR bike course with them.  You'd be welcome to try them out.

IronCat5    pirate
17/11/2011 at 09:34

Hi Dave,

It came with the PX model B's, which are the best wheels I've ever ridden .I was lucky to escape the PX shop with only a bike.

I'd love to try the 82/101 out. Yes please! Slightly concerned it's the wrong time of year to be riding expensive wheels like that.....

17/11/2011 at 10:41
Plum - CD's basically said what I would say for the extenders. I use the ones that screw straight onto existing valves and they're OK, but I know Bassy swears by the ones where you replace the valve core.

if you go down the route I've chosen, make sure you pretape the valve threads on any spare tubes you carry with PTFE tape (plumber's tape) or you may find the extender not forming a good seal and pumping the tyre up is bloody painful, if not impossible. alternatively carry a strip of tape with your spare patches. nothing worse than puncturing and then not being able to get going again due to something you should have thought about
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