Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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Plum    pirate
17/11/2011 at 23:36
OK

Got Continental tubs on all the wheels but they seem to have discontinued the 40mm extensions, will any brand fit?
cougie    pirate
17/11/2011 at 23:40
Yes - I've used Vitoria ones in the past.
Plum    pirate
17/11/2011 at 23:42
Thanks scouse........ you allowed up at this time of night?
cougie    pirate
18/11/2011 at 00:33
Asbo hasn't kicked in yet.

Have we all seen this yet ? How not to ride ?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaQJB_bWA4c&feature=youtube_gdata_player


18/11/2011 at 09:36
wow! I could't work out why he crashed to start with as he seems to have regained control but it's only later when you see that his spokes broke you realize.

now you can see why the UCI ban tribars for group riding
JD.    pirate
25/11/2011 at 23:58
been off on the mtb on the ridgeway at night and really love it. however, i've found spds just a bit too scary with all the ruts on teh ridgeway not to mention the ice like slippery chalk trails if there's a little rain.

i've put the spikey flat pedals back on the bike. i realise this is no doubt a non-necessary frivilous purchase but are there any suggestions of stiff soled (winter possibly) mtb shoes for flat pedals? or does everyone just wear old trainers all winter? was also wondering about the overshoe situation with mtb shoes and flats, as i'm guessing the overshoes don't work too well and get shredded.

anyways, 2nd hand exposure lights off ebay and getting out at night is highly recommended. not tried the road yet at night, think i'll take my chances with the rabbits and off roading (very considerate as it happens) jeeps for a while longer before i try the road.
Edited: 26/11/2011 at 00:00
JD.
26/11/2011 at 00:21
Walking shoes or boots should be OK - that's what I use if I'm going out on the MTB in winter - I don't bother with spds at all on it as I don't use it much except for taking the kids out.
JD.    pirate
26/11/2011 at 00:23
ah that's an idea, i've got some lightweight walking boots, should be ok for the really cold evenings. i'll give them a go.
JD.
The Silent Assassin    pirate
03/01/2012 at 16:09

Out on a ride on New Years Day, riding along all very well, when I suddenly thought that the gears seemed to be slipping, the next thing, a bang, back wheel locks up and I start sliding sideways, managed to control it and unclip.

Checked the bike, chain snapped, rear derailluer snapped in 2, rear mech hanger disappered, spokes lost and wheel bent.

Ok so I have had a look at replacing certain bits and getting the wheel mended and question I have is as it seems to be quite expensive, can I not bother with a rear mech or hanger, put it 1 gear and use like a single speed, but still use the 2 rings at the front?

cougie    pirate
03/01/2012 at 16:17
Ooh unlucky !

I think that would work in one gear - but if you use 2 chainrings at the front - the chain will be too loose or too tight in one of them ?
03/01/2012 at 17:04
nice one!! as they say "that's going to cost"!

you will need at least a rear hanger or you won't have any way of connecting the wheel to the bike! I assume it's a replaceable rear hanger?? if not, then you're pretty bolloxed if it's a carbon frame - if it's alu or steel, then it might be repairable by a good bike mechanic/builder.

assuming you have a replaceable hanger, then if you could replace the standard style with a rear facing one, then you could move towards a singlespeed BUT you'll need to use spacers on your hub to position a rear ring. if you can't get a rear facing hanger fitted, then you can still use a downward facing one (standard type for derailleurs) and replace the mech with a chain tensioner which will take up the slack in the chain. that "might" work with 2 rings at the front if the spacing isn't too wide - alternatively replace the setup with one ring, although you'll need a different BB (one with square taper fittings) and a new suitable crank. I don't think (but I could be wrong) that an external BB setup will take a single chainring.

there's plenty of info and videos on t'web of how to convert a standard setup to a single speed - Charlie the Bikemonger is a good place to start with his "how to" video - he sells all you need for the conversion. I used him when I converted my old frame into a SS.
Edited: 03/01/2012 at 17:09
03/01/2012 at 17:08
Yes what Cougs said - the answer is no you can't - because you'll need something to take up the slack in the chain when you stick it on the small chainring.

You should be able to get a mech hanger and mech fairly cheap though - maybe not an exact replacement but bottom of the range mechs aren't too much.

x-post - I'm thinking the dropout is OK FB but yes modern hangers do go inside the quick release don't they so if it's removed totally it might affect how the wheel clamps to the frame. I bet if it's snapped that it's snapped below that though.

Basically it's as cheap to put it right as faff around converting it isn't it - now if the shifters had stopped working too that might be different.
Edited: 03/01/2012 at 17:18
03/01/2012 at 17:29
you're probably right on the price thing pops - if all else is fine, then just get the rear end sorted, or you're basically spending money on a whole new setup. you wouldn't need intergrated shifters for a SS either so that's more money needed just to get simple brake levers fitted (I went with straight bars and BMX levers)
The Silent Assassin    pirate
03/01/2012 at 20:01

Have just stripped the half of the hanger thats left, off the bike and you can't clamp the wheel back in place without it, but, that said the hanger is def a replaceable part. Got to go to a giant dealer to get one.

The Silent Assassin    pirate
04/01/2012 at 13:56
Back from the shop, new hanger ordered 3-5 days delivery and only £10
04/01/2012 at 14:08
plus new mech and chain plus repairs....

but it could have been a damn sight more expensive if it was a non-replaceable hanger!

one of the guys on our Colombia trip had a pretty new carbon Pinarello kitted with carbon Zipp 404's - he'd not factored in "roads can vary from smooth to almost non existent". the rear wheel lasted 3 days before it fell apart, followed by his rear chainstay snapping a day later. the trip cost him a damn sight more than he bargained for!!
Edited: 04/01/2012 at 14:09
05/01/2012 at 16:19
Numpty question about bike fit.

On a standard road bike how do you know if the bars are positioned correctly for you? My cheapo second hand Carrera feels low, it’s probably too small a frame. I get tension in my triceps while riding on the hoods and after a few hours my upper shoulders and neck go a bit stiff.

Not sure if this is me being a newbie wanting a sit up a beg position or likely a poor fit?
cougie    pirate
05/01/2012 at 16:22
Very rough guide - in your riding position - can you see the front hub ?

If the bike fits you - the handlebars usually block out the hub.
05/01/2012 at 16:29
good advice from cougs - and also check the hoods position.

when you have your hands on the hoods they should be roughly flat but if your hands are pointing too far downwards, then that can create strain on the triceps and around the shoulders. they can often drop if the stem bolts holding the bar aren't tight enough so the bar rotates slowly downwards when riding
05/01/2012 at 20:11
I have a question about helmets
I got a Giro Monza for Christmas, but I think it makes me look a bit like a mushroom () so am thinking of returning it and getting a different one. I had a quick peek at the Boardman one and I'm tempted (it's less round), but thought I'd seek the wisdom of the bike gods before going any further....
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