Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,341 to 11,360 of 12,017 messages
06/01/2012 at 08:57
Thanks Guys,

Hmmm I'm not sure about this... I can just see the hub in front of the bars!

Maybe it's just me being new to road bikes. If I move the seat back then the hub disappears behind the bars but I get even further stretched out and more weight on the arms. I'm gonna try and test ride a few bikes see what they feel like in comparison.
06/01/2012 at 09:42
crux - it's all about playing with the setup to find what suits. moving the seat back and fore, seatpost up and down, changing stem lengths (shorter or longer), bar rotation etc. these are all little things that can be altered and just a small change can make a big difference. if you're still not certain, go with the bike to a decent bike shop and ask for their professional advice - they can check the size is right and help you get settled.

HH - don't fret about the look - we all look stupid in helmets in the main. as long as it fits, is comfy and does the job it's money well spent. fwiw, I wear a Spiuk helmet as it's the most comfy I've tried. have you checked the Catlike deals on Sportspursuit???
Edited: 06/01/2012 at 09:52
11/01/2012 at 09:44

Quick question: MrA has managed to burst two inner tubes in two days. 1st, old tube - bike has been in the cellar for a couple of weeks. Pumped it up and then it exploded in the middle of the night   taking the tyre with it.(though it was the change in temp from cellar to house, then house changing temp over night?)

Yesterday - new tube and tyre samething happened but about an hour after pumping it up.

Does he not know his own strength and pumping them up too much or could there be another cause?

11/01/2012 at 09:54
Don't know for sure - sometimes if you pinch the tube fitting it it'll explode soon after pumping it up - sometimes a faulty tube. For the first one if the tube had been in there ages then it suggests neither of those - so maybe it had degraded over time - not sure if that happens - it does with tyres so I imagine it can with tubes - or if he's using a track pump maybe he just pumped it up too high - I think you would have to have the psi really high for temp to make a difference.
11/01/2012 at 10:32
not much else to add to what pops has said - check the quality of the tubes and tyres, invest in some new ones if needed, make sure they are fitted properly, and check the air pressure using a track pump.

if he's going beyond 120psi, then it's too high - I run mostly at 100psi and I'm over a 100kg.
11/01/2012 at 11:02

Got two Numpty questions; I've got myself a Zipp 404/808 clincher combo. Getting new TT bike also.

1) The rear is Shimano , will all SRAM fit also?

2) Do I need any particularly special type of tube / tire for the wheels?

Thanks

cougie    pirate
11/01/2012 at 11:26
Sram cassettes will work on shimano gears.

Get some 23mm Conti GP4000s tyres and whatever tubes you like to go inside so long as they have a long enough valve and are the right 700x 23 size.
11/01/2012 at 12:12
or Michelin Pro3's......

Zipp recommend 21mm tyres for their clincher wheels but 23mm will still be fine. any good quality clincher tyre will do the trick but go with Kevlar beaded folding ones as they are slightly more resilient than wire beaded.

and for the 808 you might need a valve extender due to the rim depth. there are 2 methods - either an extender that screws straight onto the existing valve but remember to leave the valve open, or it won't blow up! and use some PTFE plumbers tape on the thread to get a better seal. the alternative is to use tyres with a removable valve core - screw a specific extender onto that and then the valve core back into the extender. that means you're moving the valve to the end of the extender unlike the 1st method where it's still in the original spot. both have their pros and cons but essentially work well

cougie    pirate
11/01/2012 at 14:44
And if you're taking spare tubes out with you - make sure the valves are deep enough ! My mates fallen foul of that before now.
Plum    pirate
11/01/2012 at 14:47
I havent...... ever........ of course
11/01/2012 at 14:48
"the alternative is to use tyres with a removable valve core"

sorry that should have read "TUBES with a removable valve core" - just too prevent confusion!
11/01/2012 at 23:00
Thanks guys !
12/01/2012 at 06:22
would you reccomend fitting some tri - bars? I have a standard road bike and have used it for shorter tri's and long sportives etc but thinking of investing in some tri bars. Budget is low so first any reccomendations and secondaly, is it worth it? cheers
12/01/2012 at 09:34
is it worth it?? yes - once you've got the set up right. just going more aero will gain you a couple of kph speed for the same effort.

there are many clip on bars out there - just go for ones that suit the budget and look right. the ones most prefer are Profile Carbon bars - various designs - but they ain't the cheapest.

check out e-bay and see what's around

technically you are not supposed to use tribars in sportives if you read the rules, but many do. if you're riding in a pack as can happen in a sportive, don't use the bars as you need more control than being on them offers. solo fine pack no.
13/01/2012 at 12:20
Tubes exploding on their own is usually rim tape issues in my experience if the tape is allowing the tube to bulge into the spoke hole (especially on modern semi deep sections then they go on their own randomly.)

The Silent Assassin    pirate
13/01/2012 at 16:19

I'm with Bassy on that one, Mrs SA always get flats even when bike left in hall, replaced rim tape, no more flats

VT'd    pirate
16/01/2012 at 08:36

This has probably been asked before but the thread is very long.

I was a bit rough when setting up my LHS tiagra shifter last night and now it'll shift but won't index, jumping back to the small ring straight away.  I took it off and part dismantled it to discover I have damaged the inners so I need to purchase a new shifter.

Here's my question (s):

1.  Before turning into a ham fisted idiot I noticed that although the front ring is a double, the shifter  clicked three times between shifts.  Would this be normal for a double x 9, or have the front rings been changed from triple to double by the previous owner?

2.  Can I take the opportunity to fit a 105 or Ultegra shifter on the LHS?  I would buy the shifters as a pair, but would look to use the LHS for now and change the rear cassette to a 10 when the opportunity arose.

Aplogies for the terminology, but I really am a bike numpty.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
16/01/2012 at 09:31

If they changed to a double without changing the shifter you'd probably have had dodgy shifting so you'd have noticed.  I don't think the number of clicks is related at all, but it's been a while since I've used Shimano on the road.

But I do know that yes, you could put a 105 or Ultegra (or Dura Ace, if you want) shifter for the front and leave the back as Tiagra 9 speed for now.  Parkers have £100 off ultegra 10 speed double levers right now.

16/01/2012 at 09:45
before you change the LHS shifter, have you checked that the cage and limit screw are set up correctly on the front mech?? if it's shifting into the large ring, but dropping back straight away, that could be down to the cage setup and not the shifter.

as a suggestion take it to the LBS and get them to check it out if you're not absolutely sure what you're doing
VT'd    pirate
16/01/2012 at 16:04

Thanks for the heads up CD and FB and as usual, sterling advice. 

It's defo the shifter FB as broken bits fell out when I took it apart.   You are spot on in your diagnosis though as that's what I believe broke it in the first place.  I'm sure I set the screws wrongly and tried shifting against one of them (very roughly I'm ashamed to say).

It's a learning process for me and although a stupid expensive mistake, it's not one I'll repeat.

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