Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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VT'd    pirate
21/03/2012 at 19:36

I didn't feel very comfortable on my new settings, especially on the clip ons, which made me feel cramped and sore after a very short time.   I'm right over the front, being able to see the hub in both aero and hood positions and feel that is a bit extreme for my old creaky back.

I'm for putting a 20mm spacer back in tomorrow, see how that goes and might even consider two spacers.  

In saying that, does it make sense that I feel more powerful and faster in this new position?  If so should I perservere in the hope that I'll settle into it?  Or perhaps should I look for a further compromise by loosing a bit of power/speed for comfort?

Sorry, there's three questions in that.

Popsider, thanks for questioning the changes as it's caused me to think all might not be quite as straightforward and as right as it should.

21/03/2012 at 19:47
Evening, I managed to get out on my aero bars after several hours on the Turbo. It's something I'll have to get used to as it's all a bit unstable at the mo! Having spent some time fiddling with my saddle it appeared I hadn't tightened up the stem enough so by the time I got to work it felt like I was riding a chopper!! What a numpty!!
Can anyone recommend decent handlebar tape? I'd like something with a reasonable amount of padding as I'm doing LEJOG next month as my Outlaw training so will need some comfort!
Cheers, Siggy
21/03/2012 at 22:00
A lot of the pros used a double layer of padded tape for races over cobbles. That might be worth trying.
Plum    pirate
21/03/2012 at 22:02
you can actually buy gel pads to go under the bits that take the mist abuse.... I put mine along the top of the bars and on the inside and the bottom of the drops,,,, benefit is that they are reuseable....

Anyone know anyone with an ADAMO saddle for sale.....road or TT preferably....
25/03/2012 at 22:40
Another issue from today. I'm getting better at getting aero. However, that in itself presents another problem which is probably best answered by some one who is, shall I say, built for comfort rather than speed! When I go low my knees tend to rise up into my ample gut! Apart from the obvious, 'lose weight fatty' what's the best way to prevent this? Raise the seat a tad? I feel like the seat needs to go a bit higher and tilted forwards more, for comfort, but am conscious that may lead to my hips 'rocking' side to side due to the increase in height of the seat!
Thank you!
Dustboy    pirate
25/03/2012 at 22:54
Not only that, it will alter your basic riding "shape" which may not be as good for your back and rocking on the saddle is not good either.

With the kind of miles you will (should) be putting in now, the gut issue should resolve itself. Especially as you are a mere slip of a youngster. Let me know though, coz I need to lose my gut too.

Re handlebar tape, Dave stuck some gel pads under mine, no issues at all. Can you get gel pads for your arse Plum, coz mine feels like it's been sculpted with a Black & Decker sander.

Ref the Adamo saddle, no, but I raised my long term loan Selle San Marco Triathgel Aspide up half a cm and the dead knob problem has reduced and it was well getting on my nerves before.

Note to self, about time to stick the Aero Bars back on then.

Plum    pirate
26/03/2012 at 09:13
I have got an Adamo on the TT and it is the dogs cohones ...... rather than keep faffing swapping it back and forth I wanted to get another one but am a tad averse to paying the full wack if I can help it being a tight git
JD.    pirate
27/03/2012 at 07:54
mtb puncture advice needed. i keep on getting punctures every time i venture onto a hedged trail. any solution to this other than avoiding said trails? different tyres? anyway way to avoid/minimise punctures? never used to get punctures in my road cycling days so it's starting to pish me off a bit, especially sorting them out in the dark.

thanks
JD.
27/03/2012 at 09:23
"venture onto a hedged trail"

thorns or shards of wood I guess??

2 possible solutions but neither will absolutely prevent punctures

1. get new tyres with kevlar beading (if you don't have them) as they do offer better protection over steel beading

2. change to tubeless tyres that use a latex sealant like Stan Juice. the sealant will seal small punctures - P has these on her MTB and she punctures less than me. you can use your current wheels, you just need to get the bits and pieces and some new suitable tyres (Schwalbe are highly recommended for tubeless).

JD.    pirate
27/03/2012 at 12:41

ta FB, yeah it was thorns again and again unfortunately.

 thanks for the advice, i'll take a look at those options.

 cheers

JD.
27/03/2012 at 13:12
punctures are usually more frequent after the hedges have been flailed so spring or autumn are always the worst times.

I'm slowly building a 2nd MTB and will go with tubeless this time from scratch. Stan's No Tubes now also sell their own specced wheels (ZTR) which I'll go with (see what the price is like first). you can however use standard rims
Edited: 27/03/2012 at 13:13
TheEngineer    pirate
28/03/2012 at 10:09
I'm in the first flushes of romance with my adamo. This means I've got a sore arse, but at least I've not lost any feeling in the important areas!

Is it normal for the saddle or seatpost to creak a bit at first? New bike creaks intermittently but only when sat down - I think it's the seatpost...
28/03/2012 at 11:30
Seen a few mentions on here of TT bikes giving an average 3mph speed gain. Unless i've screwed-up the maths, that kind of gain would take 45 mins off my bike time, which gets me sub-12 for Outlaw. I'm a fairly flexi bloke and can stay aero on my roadie for long durations (granted the positions not so stressful as on a TT). But I wonder, is 3mph average realistic/common? And I'm talking about the sort of TT bike you can get from somewhere like PX for £1,500 rather than some serious bling. Any thoughts????
28/03/2012 at 11:41
I would think 3kph rather than 3mph

it's not just the bike though but the setup, wheels, training, kit (aero helmet etc) - and you and your buiuld. sure, TT bikes are designed to be quicker than a road bike but I don't think you can take a general speed gain as being a given.

I was having this discussion last night with the owner of my local tri shop (big Cervelo seller) and we both agree that TT bikes are fine for some people but they aren't the panacea to speed gain for all. if you're built like a brick shithouse like me, then 80% of my wind resistance is me, plus weight factor, and no amount of aero bike will give a big speed gain - incremental yes, but nothing major. I'm better off improving the engine and dropping the weight
28/03/2012 at 13:48

Hi All,

 Got a couple of numpty questions RE Valve extensions on Zipps.

For Mallorca HIM, I'll be taking spare tube etc in case of puncture. My numpty questions are this ...

1. How do you release air through the extensions ? 

2. When fitting the extensions originally, you need to open the valve and put insulating tape around the thingy-me-jig to keep the valve open. If I had to replace my tube during the race with the new one, would it be necessary to do the same thing with the tape i.e. bring tape with me on the bike during race ?

Sorry, I know I probably don't deserve my lovely wheels.

Thanks

28/03/2012 at 14:46
you've started wrongly - you don't need to tape the valve open - it stays shut even when unscrewed and will only release air when depressed. and with extenders you need to leave it open to inflate as needed. if you need to deflate the tube for some reason, stick a cocktail stick/narrow screwdriver or similar up the extension to depress the valve.

you should use plumbers tape (PTFE tape) around the valve screw (where the cap normally screws on) to get a good seal between the valve and the extension - that's what the taping is all about. pretape any spare tubes in advance so you don't need to carry any with you.

and if you've punctured you won't need to release air - the puncture's done it for you....

as an alternative use tubes with removable valve cores and an extension you can screw this into - that moves the valve to end of the extension and you can then handle it normally. it means you need to change valves and extensions but it's an alternative to consider.


and yes - you don't deserve the Zipps but enjoy them....
Edited: 28/03/2012 at 14:48
28/03/2012 at 15:28

Cheers FB.

 I did follow the instructions came with the extensions so guess I've done it right but just described it wrong

Thanks for the advice RE pretaping the new tubes. Didn't think of that. Makes, erm, perfect sense !

28/03/2012 at 15:36
ok - basics right, poor description, you're off the hook...
28/03/2012 at 16:15

Hi All,

 Got a couple of numpty questions RE Valve extensions on Zipps.

For Mallorca HIM, I'll be taking spare tube etc in case of puncture. My numpty questions are this ...

1. How do you release air through the extensions ? 

2. When fitting the extensions originally, you need to open the valve and put insulating tape around the thingy-me-jig to keep the valve open. If I had to replace my tube during the race with the new one, would it be necessary to do the same thing with the tape i.e. bring tape with me on the bike during race ?

Sorry, I know I probably don't deserve my lovely wheels.

Thanks

28/03/2012 at 16:17
fat buddha wrote (see)
ok - basics right, poor description, you're off the hook...

This is the 'numpty' thread. Should be a sort of amnesty, right ?
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