Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,581 to 11,600 of 12,108 messages
18/07/2012 at 14:58

Thank you.

19/07/2012 at 19:18

numpty bike question, what makes a bike Specialised?

I'm coming to the conclusion that specailised may be a brand name, ive been racking my brains all week what modifications a bike needed to become specialised.

Rafiki    pirate
19/07/2012 at 19:24

It is a brand name Honk - and spelt with a 'Zeeeeeee'

19/07/2012 at 19:26


Cortina5    pirate
19/07/2012 at 20:29
H0NK wrote (see)

numpty bike question, what makes a bike Specialised?

Recently, low kit level and higher price.

20/07/2012 at 22:07
Hello, bike numpty here! I'm up to page 20 of the thread but thought I'd ask my numpty questions whilst reading through! I've only run up to now but want a bike to do some cycling and to do start doing tri.

I'm going looking at a Norco cyclocross bike (ccx2 triple 2012). I've decided on a cyclocross as its versatile and I don't want 2 bikes but want to be able to do on road or off road with a change of tyres without losing too much speed.

Questions are:

1. How do I know what to look for / what to feel for when I try it out?!

2. If I buy it it will be from Evans cycles - can I trust them to set it up for me or should I take it elsewhere (i am not too far from Royles in Cheshire), or would a LBS not want to help me given that I didn't buy it from them.

3. Similar to number 2, if I do buy it and then want extra tyres etc will I be able to go to LBS to get extra bits and bobs?

I'm sure there will be a ridiculous number of numpty questions following this. It's quite surreal that thanks to one of the earlier pages of this thread I understand gears but have no idea about the basic things that I'm asking here!!
20/07/2012 at 22:30

You wont know what to look/feel for if you aren't an experienced rider - and even then it takes time to get used to a bike.  Have they said you can try it out before buying - it's not always the case - bike shops don't have a full range of bikes in all sizes ready built up for people to test.  The only thing that really matters is whether it fits - there are various websites which can help you find your ideal bike measurements and after that you'll be relying on the shop staff or any knowledgable friends you may have.   

I'd have thought Evans would be able to build the bike up OK - even Halfords can manage in most cases.   I think most local bike shops will be glad of the business whether you bought it off them or not - but of course if you had bought it off them they might do a few things foc such as an initial service or swop stems round to get a better fit.

Yes tyres are a standard size - for the road your best bet is 23mm width and you want 700c - you may need narrower inner tubes than are in your cross tyres too but I'm not 100% on that.  

20/07/2012 at 22:46
Cheers, they are ordering in the size that they think I need based on my measurements so I can look at it / sit on it I guess. I've not owned a bike since I was 13, which is 15yrs ago! I can't even remember how to ride on the roads!
Britrisky    pirate
20/07/2012 at 23:53
Way to go, 40!!
21/07/2012 at 06:18
I feel quite liberated to be ploughing head first into something I know hardly anything about, definitely looking forward to learning the basics!

The bike doesn't have pedals - where is the best place to get a set of bog standard normal pedals? Not getting any fancy clippy in thingys yet!

Am on hol for a week from today so might not post any thankyous for a while but I will return to my new favourite thread soon!!
PSC    pirate
21/07/2012 at 06:24
Bike shop will sell flat pedals. Clippies are the way forward though.
21/07/2012 at 07:06
The way forwards for me at present is probably equivalent to everyone else's way remembering how to actually ride a bike!

You lined me up to ask another numpty question though PSC..... Why are clippy pedals better?!

Sorry, I feel like such an idiot asking these questions..... If you feel the need to shove me off in the direction of an informative website somewhere then please do..... Saves me filling your thread with crap!

Thanks again!
21/07/2012 at 10:25

Clipless pedals replaced clips and straps - where your foot was strapped to the pedal.   Clipless are better than those because they were hard to get your foot out if you had to stop suddenly - or if you crashed your bike could still be attached to your foot with the potential to injure you.   

Clipless vs flats - well clipless keep your feet on the pedals in the best position for pedaling.   Your foot isn't going to slip off in a sprint is another bonus.  They also allow you to pull up with your foot and add a bit of power that way - studies have shown that cyclists don't generally actually pull up they just unweight the pedal on the upstroke - but sometimes you will and it lets you give it a bit extra maybe powering over a incline or getting out of the saddle and starting or sprint or something like that.   Personally I think flat pedals are not that much of a disadvantage for a triathlon or time trial or just riding around and people who struggle with clipless should just stay on flats for a few months til they are confident cycling but I know I'm in a minority on that.   You shouldn't really be falling off using clipless because you forgot to unclip - others will tell you everyone does sometimes but they don't - not if they are confident on a bike.   

21/07/2012 at 14:23

Could I have peoples thoughts on the Giant Defy triple as an entry level bike, would this be suitable to train for and complete a first Ironman?

Theres 2 options with this bike, triuk are selling of this years hires for £375 or I could wait till next february and hire a new bike for the season assuming they do something  either of these options would probably be acceptable to my financial advisor / wife.  I prefer the buy now option so i could train over the winter but I do have a mountain bike I can use in the meantime. I intend to get a turbo trainer too.

Rafiki    pirate
21/07/2012 at 15:59

Watching Wiggins and Frome doing the time trial and noticed their front ring is elliptical - what advantage does that provide??

21/07/2012 at 17:36

Honk - as a road bike fine, if you want to fit clip on tri bars then I'd go for something else, only because I think they have a fairly high front end and you'll struggle to get a decent position with tri bars.  


21/07/2012 at 19:00

Thanks Popsider, I don't know if I want to fit tri bars or not, I'm a bit confused about them actually, I understand that that they help you get lower and more aerodynamic on the bike but why do only tri people use them? why isnt everyone on road bikes fitting tri bars for all there races or is it a problem with the rules on normal cycle races?

My aim is to be comfortable on the cycle ride for first attempt and if that costs me some time then maybe I will come back a second time for a pb. Are tri bars comfortable or is it a case of sacrificing comfort for extra speed?

21/07/2012 at 19:31

They use them in time trials too - they aren't allowed in bunch road racing because they compromise your control of the bike.  I think the name tri bars might be just because that's where they were first popular. 

Whether they are comfy or not - depends on the set up - it is possible to get a reasonably fast set up that is also comfy - the more aggressive aero set ups maybe not so much.  

TheEngineer    pirate
21/07/2012 at 20:34

Not really a bike problem, just a random musing...

With the O-Symetrics you see Wiggins running, they tend to put a chain catcher on and spend ages faffing with the front deraileur. Looking at the bottom of the chain bouncing around though... wouldn't you have thought they would increase the spring tension on the rear deraileur to reduce that bounce??

TheEngineer    pirate
21/07/2012 at 20:42

Raf, hadn't seen your post above. 

A larger gear on the front gives more power because it has a larger radius - elliptical (and noncircular, which is slightly different by definition) chainrings allow that radius to change during the pedal stroke. When you're pushing down on the pedal you're recruiting more powerful muscle groups, so it's possible here to push a larger radius (or effectively...gear). Having a smaller radius at the top and bottom of the pedal action means you can keep the crank turning over quickly, at the cost of a smaller gear. 

Overall the belief is (and a growing amount of scientific literature suggests) that this shifting of demand from smaller muscle groups to those larger ones means an overall reduction in effort for a similar power output... or for those at the sharp end, a few more watts for the same effort.  

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