Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,661 to 11,680 of 11,990 messages
Cheerful Dave    pirate
13/09/2012 at 10:03

Have you tried mounting the bracket at an angle so that the back of the light goes to the right of the frame?

Alternatively these look a bit longer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fixation-bracket-dynamo-front-bicycle/dp/B002VEBPE8
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/schmidt-short-stainless-steel-headlamp-bracket-for-mounting-schmidt-e6-prod15353/

Or offset the mounting with this:

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/headlamp-offset-spacer-prod572/

You really need to take that to a tri one day!

13/09/2012 at 10:06

Don't know if it would work but with a longer bolt you could put something between the bracket and the fork as a spacer - a couple of nuts maybe - looks like you might be able to get enough room from that without fouling the brake caliper.  Not ideal maybe but worth a thought.

13/09/2012 at 21:26

Thanks all for the ideas.  I think my forst fault was I was googling 'bullet light bracket'.  When I googled dynamo bracket I got loads of hits.

For now, I have gone with popsider's suggestion and put a plastic washer between the forks and bracket.  It has given me an extra bit of height, but the true test will be when I take it outside in the garden later to check the range of the beam

Thanks again for your help, Guys

13/09/2012 at 21:27
Iron Muffin wrote (see)

Great bike.

Thank you.  I knew another lady would appreciate it. 

I will be bringing it with me to Tenby

22/09/2012 at 11:04

Hello

Recently the back sprocket has started to jump between gears when riding and there is a clicking noise coming from the back when peddling, on examing the cassette I can feel a little bit of play when I jiggle the cassette. 

Would the cassette need replacing or would it be the rear hub that needs to be replaced?

Cheers

IronCat5    pirate
22/09/2012 at 14:36
Depends. Drop the rear wheel out and wiggle the casette. See if you can see the freehub wobbling too. Do you have the kit to remove a casette?
Mr StOat    pirate
22/09/2012 at 17:16

Could it not just need tension on the cable? I had a freehub that wore out but it slipped in a gear rather then jumping between gears?

22/09/2012 at 20:28

Don't have the kit but a mate does. Will pop the wheel out tomorrow to have a look.

The cable tension seems ok, I'll prob take it into the LBS to check it out save me breaking things I suppose.

22/09/2012 at 20:49

A little bit of play in the cassette isn't unusual - assuming that the lock ring holding the cassette on isn't loose it could be the cassette on the freehub body or play in the freehub itself (or maybe something else!).  

Even if there is play I reckon it could be something else causing your problem so I'd do what matt suggests and adjust the cable tension first, also check the cable is running free and the wheel is straight in the dropouts.   

Mr StOat    pirate
22/09/2012 at 23:00
Tension may seem ok but it could do with done more. Look at the cassette and derailleur. Do they all line up - the cog and jockey wheels. There's normally a tensioner where the cable enters the derailleur, add 1/4-1/2 a turn, maybe more, see if it makes any difference
30/09/2012 at 14:56
Folks, looking for some advice on gearing for my first tt bike, with an eye towards next years Outlaw.

I currently have a Ribble Grand Fondo which I love. It has a 34/50 and 12/23 set up which on the whole is fine for my training in the Peak District. However, when racing on flatter courses, it is exclusively people on tt bikes that are coming past me, hence my desire to give the tt a go.

Looking at the Ribble Ultra Carbon TT but i am a little lost of which gears to chose given the Outlaw is a flat course.

39/53 with a 11/25 or
39/53 with 12/25

Or should i consider a 34/50 like i have at the moment

I have tried researching this online and i am getting tied in knots.

Whilst i am at it, what does the 9/10/11 mean when refering to clinchers?

Thanks in advance

Stanners
30/09/2012 at 15:23

A lot depends on you - what events you plan to ride and how strong you are.   There isn't that much difference between a 50 and a 52 - anyone asking about gearing is almost certainly going to be OK with a 50*11 or 50*12.     On the other hand how often are you going to need a 34 ring on a TT bike ?    If it was me I'd stay with a standard double but it's what suits you.

As for 9/10/11 when referring to clinchers - I don't think it refers to anything - are you sure it isn't referring to the freehub on the wheel and what speed cassette it will take ?

30/09/2012 at 16:52
Cheers Pops, is a standard double the 39/53 or 34/50?
IronCat5    pirate
30/09/2012 at 18:50

39/53.

07/10/2012 at 20:31
Tube tape help please. I have tube/tub tyres on my bike. It's currently off being resperayed so I took the tubs off keeping the tape on the tubs and then cleaned up the rims. In cleaning the rims I took of any residual tape glue on them.

I was planning to buy new tape put it in the rims for 24hrs then peel the old tape off the tubs and re-fit them.

Is this a good idea? My Dad said I should have left the glue on the rims and left the existing tape on the tubs and refitted them?

Help please? Thanks.
Edited: 07/10/2012 at 20:32
Mr StOat    pirate
09/10/2012 at 08:17

Could you not put glue in the rims and then refit the existing tubs with the existing tape back on? I thought the idea of putting the tape on for 24 hours was with a clean tub on top to make sure it was pressed tight against the rim, which presumably you cant do as the exisiting tape will make it a bit trickier.

I don't know for definite - the dark art of tub maintenance is beyond me - hence why I stuck with clinchers

09/10/2012 at 09:53

When you say tape do you mean the base tape of the tubular tyre or tub tape that was used to fix the tubulars to the rims ?     If your dad means you've peeled the base tape off the tubulars which were fixed with glue then he is probably right.   If you mean you've just removed the old tub tape then you don't have a problem.   

I should add I rarely use tubs so whether you can or should leave old tub tape on I'm not sure - I'd probably remove it if I were retaping them.   

09/10/2012 at 10:06

Hi I mean the tub tape that was used to fix the tubulars to the rims.

I figure that with new rims and new tubs you'd have to use new tape so I should be OK. There''s also the fact that i did a lousy job with the old tape as it's definitley not on the middle of the tyre , so I 'd like to re-do it and get it right.

Edited: 09/10/2012 at 10:07
09/10/2012 at 10:24

Yes I think I'd have done what you've done - been a while since I taped tubs but like you say it's only the same as new wheels and tyres isn't it.

09/10/2012 at 11:59

Can anyone tell me why 53/39 is now standard, rather than 42/52 as was standard in the old days when 8 gears was enough for any drugged up tour rider ?

im also wondering about longer cranks.  but thats for a another day

 

11,661 to 11,680 of 11,990 messages
Previously bookmarked threads are now visible in "Followed Threads". You can also manage notifications on these threads from the "Forum Settings" section of your profile settings page to prevent being sent an email when a reply is made.
Forum Jump  

RW competitions

RW Forums