Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,741 to 11,760 of 12,108 messages
04/01/2013 at 17:21

the most aero will be in your back pocket.....

Topeak mini-pumps come with a little holder that sits next to the downtube bottle cage (using the cage bolts) that the pump fits into.  secured with a velcro strap.  works well enough for me and frankly even though it might not be the most aero, but on a training bike why worry??  

VTd    pirate
05/01/2013 at 10:27

Probably been asked and answered a million times.  I just bought my first TT bike a year after buying my first ever road bike.  I haven't bought wheels as yet, but I'm probably going to buy used to get some value for money.

I haven't a clue about tubulars and believe that most run tubs on TT bikes.  Do they make a massive difference to the ride and what other real world advantage would they give me over deep section carbon clinchers.

Maybe looking at 404's or similar if I'm going for the tubulars and maybe something about 60mm deep if I'm going with the clinchers.

A bit concerneed over the stories of tubs being a bitch to change roadside if I puncture.


05/01/2013 at 11:17

The differences are minimal.   The rims are lighter and stronger - if you do puncture the hook required for a clincher is vulnerable to damage on an all carbon rim.  

As far as the ride goes some say tubulars feel a bit nicer and others say they can't notice any difference - tests for rolling resistance show no real advantage - in fact I think the best clinchers come out marginally better.

For punctures I'd rely on sealant and if that fails then I'd probably say game over - but you can carry a spare tub if you want and changing them isn't hard - maybe takes 3-4 minutes longer than changing a tube if you tape the tubular up - if you rely on old glue then about the same.

cougie    pirate
05/01/2013 at 12:19
Are you trying to qualify for kona ? Then if budget permits if probably go tubs.
If you're not - then normal tyres ride 99% as good and in my experience flat less.
TheEngineer    pirate
05/01/2013 at 14:42
cougie wrote (see)
Are you trying to qualify for kona ? Then if budget permits if probably go tubs.
If you're not - then normal tyres ride 99% as good and in my experience flat less.

Even Zipp are saying these days that the difference is negligible, these days... they don't even make a Super 9 in tub...

TheEngineer    pirate
05/01/2013 at 14:43

(but tubs look pro, even if Tony Martin rides clinchers...) 

VTd    pirate
05/01/2013 at 20:55

Thankyou all for your help, clinchers it is.  And if they produce some sort of miracle of miracles and get me to Kona everyone will want them.

06/01/2013 at 11:40

Folks, as always, looking for some help with a question that will make you slap your foreheads in frustration.

I bought my first TT bike in December, an Aero Ultr TT from Ribble. Good value but as always with Ribble, you buy the bike and nothing else (not even a smile from the shop guys when you pick it up). The plan was to buy a frame size that was right then do a bike fitting session to get the set up just right. 

Anyway, I have only just got this on to the turbo trainer following the silly season and was suprised to see that the seat post only went so far in to the frame (it is obvious when you llook at the picture now). As a result, there is about 8 inches of seat post protruding at it's lowest.

I have e-mailed Ribble to see if there are shorter ones available (there were no options given when ordering), but I am not holding out much hope. If this is the case, does anyone know if you can take a hacksaw to these things without completely buggering them up? It is carbon so I have no idea how it would react or would it be worth takiung it to a bike shop to see what they could do?

Britrisky    pirate
06/01/2013 at 13:43
My LBS did just that on my carbon bike, and didn't charge either
06/01/2013 at 22:13

Stanners - my TT bike was the same - I did just what you suggest - cut the bottom off with a hacksaw - it's dead easy.    

07/01/2013 at 20:38

apparently you need a specific diamond encrsted blade, but a v fine blade apparently does ok - to stop ripping the carbon fibres rather than cutting them.

do a few googles / utube searches and good luck.

(I took mine to a shop to get the steerer tube done as there was less room for maneouver)

07/01/2013 at 21:56
Think it may be best entrusting this to the LBS, thanks for the advice folks
07/01/2013 at 22:11

I did it with a junior hacksaw from B&Q and it cuts a lot easier than an alloy steerer  - OC is having you on I think ! 

Mr StOat    pirate
07/01/2013 at 22:19
It's true

It may be a bit steep, but a lot less than a new post / fork / bars / whatever.
You can also get guides to help cut a straight line, probably not so vital on a seat post.
07/01/2013 at 22:27

All the bike shop will do is get a junior hacksaw - draw a line on the seatpost and cut it - there is no possible way you can mess it up.    

The reason some bikes have a limit for inserting the post is because the seat tube is reinforced to a certain depth to avoid the seatpost damaging it - they expect you to cut the post shorter.

08/01/2013 at 09:33

if you are doing it DIY - just remember to measure twice and cut once.....  

Razor51    pirate
09/01/2013 at 22:41
Does this happen to anyone else, when on the turbo in top gear and max resistance I find when I stand on the peddals the wheel slips, do I need to put on a tyre with more tread, a turbo tyre or would deflating the tyre a little help
Mr StOat    pirate
09/01/2013 at 22:52

I'd possibly put more pressure in and tighten the turbo onto the tyre more


10/01/2013 at 10:28

I don't have a max resistance setting on my turbo - it's an Elite Chronogel - but I have seen some slippage when standing in top gear.  it seems to be when they tyre's deflated a bit - so do as 7755 suggests.

10/01/2013 at 14:47

Finally took my race wheels and tyres off the bike and put them in a box until the sun shines. Should I deflate the tyres or leave them hard? Thanks folks .

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