Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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29/07/2013 at 10:23

I wouldn't have thought that the BB would need replacing after a year but it's worth a check.

and does it happen in the same spot when in each chainring or only click on one?? if it's just one, then you might have a chainring tooth that is slightly out of true

the problem with clicks is that they can be buggers to track down so what you may be hearing is coming from somewhere other than the BB/chainring area - seatposts are notorious for producing noises that seem to come form elsewhere.

and does it click when you aren't sat on it??  maybe it's a bit of shoe rubbing somewhere if it only happens when you are cycling

just some ideas

Cheerful Dave    pirate
30/07/2013 at 10:19
JPGoodboy wrote (see)

My wife has the triban 3, its a great bike I bought the triban 5 earlier in the year but I can't see much difference between them apart from £200, we've upgraded the wheels to shimano's but kept the old ones for the turbo. Highly recommended bikes


Seconded (or thirded?).  The smaller sizes have 650c wheels - we got a triban 3 for junior earlier this year and for the money there's nothing close.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
30/07/2013 at 10:31
Stoatally Different wrote (see)

I have a Scott CR1 Pro as my best bike. Recently it's developed a click. 

every time the left crank goes over the top and gets to about 11 o'clock (looking from the left) it gives a single click. 

Could this be time for a new bb? It's 2011 model, so I've had it over a year. 

Anytging else it might be? I'd say its crab related. Only ticks in time with the crank, wheel speed or gear makes no difference, it's cadence related

ta


Check everything is tight - less obvious ones that have caused clicking noises for me in the past are the pre-tensioning nut at the end of the left crank and the chainring bolts.

30/07/2013 at 12:21

Annoying clicks I've had in the past include:

  • Stone lodged in the pedal cleat
  • Chain Link stuck or seized
  • seatpin loose
  • BB bearings knackered
  • Pedal loose
  • crank fixing bolt loose
  • Crank Spider Lockring loose (on the side of the road in Lanzarote)
  • Rear gear jockey wheel full of dirt

Basically make sure everything that should be tight is tight, everything that should be free and lubed is free and lubed, everything is clean and grease free and that the clicking really is coming from the area you think it is.

A really helpful tip I only learned this year - the chain goes round roughly twice for every crank rotation.  So if the noise only occurs every other crank rotation, it's probably something wrong with a chainlink (either seized, bent or broken)

30/07/2013 at 12:25

good list there TG - and one other I've seen in the past - a loose chainring bolt....

what you don't want to happen is the lockring going awol - had that on the MTB in Spain, and no idea why it came off - as the crank then tends to come off completely........

cougie    pirate
30/07/2013 at 13:32
Silliest clicks for me were - crank catching on a misaligned front mach and a frame pump snagging the other crank.
Cheerful Dave    pirate
30/07/2013 at 13:47
fat buddha wrote (see)

good list there TG - and one other I've seen in the past - a loose chainring bolt....


Hey, I said that already!  I only noticed it was working loose when I went to shift to the small ring and the chain simply fell into the now wider gap between them.

Crank catching on the cadence sensor was another one.

31/07/2013 at 17:58

Advice please, got my hybrid out after 2 years in the garage, tyres, brakes, chain etc all good, but realise that I now need to alter the saddle. But its stuck...what should I use to free the hex bolt so I can raise the saddle?

01/08/2013 at 11:36

a good shot of WD40 or some other similar penetrating oil.  let it soak in for 10 mins and then see if the bolt loosens.   what you don't want to happen is forcing it so hard that you strip the bolt head as then you might have to drill it out.

if in doubt, get the local bike shop to sort it - they'll have a lot more experience with these things so will know what tricks to use

and in the future - a) don't leave the bike unused for 2 years, b) use an anti-binding compound on the bolt thread to prevent it siezing, and c) don't over-tighten

 

01/08/2013 at 22:26

Thanks FB,

in the end a shot of WD40 then Mr Steady used his superior strength and it shifted.

a) will hopefully not re-occur, I aim to do a bit of commuting with it.

b) and c) noted.

01/08/2013 at 23:36

I have been out for a few rides on my new bik and noticed the chain is rubbing on the front derailleur when on the smaller chain ring and the higher gears at the back (smallest 3) - excuse the numpty like terminology this is all new to me. At one point today the chain actually came off when changing from the big to the smaller chain ring - this was not particularly fun especially as I was going pretty quick (for a newbie) A quick google throws up a few potential options, some of which I have tried, others of which i felt were a bit out of my depth. 

I know the obvious answer is take it back to the shop (Evans) but to be honest I have zero faith in them and if they did it badly once I reckon they won't do a much better job the second time. 

As they also didn't fit it properly I am taking it to a local bike shop on Saturday and I was going to ask them to sort it out - is this likely to be an expensive job?

Edited: 01/08/2013 at 23:36
Cheerful Dave    pirate
02/08/2013 at 05:48

A bit of chain rub is quite common when the chain is running across the extremes like that.  It's possible to adjust so that it doesn't happen but to be honest it's better to change down (or up) at the front before you get to that point - it's more efficient and saves wear on the chain if you avoid small ring/small cog and big ring/big cog combinations.

The chain coming off shouldn't happen but unless it's happening regularly I wouldn't bother taking it back just for that, they're unliely to find the cause of a one-off.  If it's a regular occurrence it could be that the limit screw is set incorrectly and the front derailleur is taking the chain too far across and off altogether. 

02/08/2013 at 08:28

Thank you for the reply

02/08/2013 at 11:18

+1 with CD

use your gears more effectively - if you work on the principle of keeping the chain line as straight as possible, then you're OK.

and get the LBS to check it out - a simple adjustment to the limit screws will do the job of stopping the chain dropping

02/08/2013 at 14:21

Thanks, all taken on board - and I shall try to put it into practice when I go out again tonight. I will ask them to look at it when I go to get it correctly fitted. Had it just been on the smallest gear I would have just ignored it but with it happening on 3 of them it was a bit more of a worry.

JD.    pirate
04/08/2013 at 16:45
fat buddha wrote (see)

Hi JD

sorry - can't really comment on what's wrong with the Michelins as I don't recall any issues when I rode their precursors.

when you say they "kick" - is this as you go round a bend?  I'm thinking here that it's the larger knobs on the edge "catching" on tarmac doing that. when you're riding in a straight line then it would be fine as you're on the smoother centre tread.  you probably wouldn't see any issues like this off road.  maybe you are just seeing something that isn't an issue but as they are very new to you, and a different pattern to the old ones, then it's a familiarity thing.

as for bulges - I'd always be suspicious of bulges in tyres but that will depend on how large and where.  MTB tyres are never fully smooth near the rims ime and it's maybe that they just need to settle in.   but if it's a bulge that is really protruding, then I'd question the build quality and get them replaced.

and I'd always go for folding tyres....

I should get my new steed by the weekend - looking forward to getting on the Downs on that  

Thanks FB.  the tyre bulges like a python that's eaten a rabbit.  it's wiggly too.  so looks very asymetrical when i spin it.  same with both wheels.  i guess it must be a fault with the tyres or perhaps my wheels are just too wide.

JD.
JD.    pirate
04/08/2013 at 16:48
Bouncing Barlist wrote (see)

Its a lesser spotted JD  

Hello

Guess youre just here scoping out the forum looking for the IM Austria 2015 10th anniverary thread

Maybe a 2016 reunion, i might be let out to train for my 40th year.  Hopefully there's an enforce BMI rule.

JD.
JD.    pirate
07/08/2013 at 22:59

I popped into Evan's today.  The kid there suggested overinflating the tyres to 80 psi to get the tyre to seat properly.  did that and it sprung out a little.  that seems to have done the trick as the tyres ran smoothly this evening.

JD.
Iron Pugsley    pirate
08/08/2013 at 10:09

working on the n+1 rule I have justified the purchase of a new bike.  The justification is that I will be amusing my 2 year old on a seat on the back.  The sub-text is that I need a bike for winter riding and some tame off road (defintely not mountains).

not planning to spend a huge amount and came across this http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rockrider-51-2013-mountain-bike-grey-white-id_8231773.html#User_opinion.  The reviews aren't great but looks like numpties who don't know how to tune gears.

seems a bargain - anyone have any experience or thoughts?

08/08/2013 at 11:04

personally I wouldn't go near it as I wouldn't trust the quality of materials on any bike selling new for less than £200 - Decathlon or not.  Decathlon do make some very good inexpensive bikes but they are around the £500 mark and of similar quality to other brands around £7-800.

but on the other hand at that price, what do you have to lose (bar £160)?  if it's just something to pootle around locally on with the kid on the back and take on the occasional track/canal path type ride it may be OK

but if you like a decent bike to ride on, I'd avoid

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