Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,761 to 11,780 of 12,108 messages
10/01/2013 at 15:00

Oh... that slippage always happens on mine. Just thought that you were ill advised to get out of the saddle on a turbo. More evidence that I don't know an arse from an onion.

Razor51    pirate
10/01/2013 at 22:08
thanks guys
11/01/2013 at 10:24

stil - I just leave my race wheels as they come off the bike.  the tubes will deflate as time goes by - just reinflate when you need them again.  never had a problem doing that - and the tyres and tubes have been on for at least 3 years now.  just make sure you check the tyres over on re-use for any damage, signs of perishing etc.

11/01/2013 at 17:17

Cheers Buddha. Appreciated.
Just back from a first proper ride since changing the 12-27 I used for IMW back to the 12-25 I had before. Massively improved ride. It's smoother, quieter and more responsive, even after swapping out my race wheels and tyres for the old Comos and Gator HardShells. This bike riding lark's full of surprises

Scuba Trooper    pirate
27/01/2013 at 15:41

Numpty questions about cold weather kit.

I've started to up my bike rides from nothing to 1:30hrs its not warm out there in the mornings. I am training for Challenge Henley so this will increase up to 6hrs over the next few months.

I have noticed my feet getting colder and colder not to bad for an hour, will the coldness increase as the hours increase or do you reach a steady state where the effort compensates for the windchill? If not overshoes appear to be the answer. Are the material oversocks worthwhile or should I just go for neoprene and have done with it? Is there an inbetween?

Secondly what are the advanatges and disadvantages of bid shorts over normal bike shorts or tri shorts. I haven't noticed getting a cold back or stomach?

As always you knowledge and experince is appreciated.

27/01/2013 at 17:40

Just get neoprene - the material ones help but not as much - and you can make them out of a pair of socks anyway.   The material ones are more for Autumn and Spring and arguably as much a fashion thing as something you need. 

Bib shorts just fit better and if you wear race fit jerseys you probably will find a gap between your shorts and jersey if you wear non-bibs .

Scuba Trooper    pirate
27/01/2013 at 18:31

Cheers Popsider

28/01/2013 at 12:32

I'm considering a new shiny bike, 2 in the offing at the moment, both Specialized.  I have a bike already which will be relegated to a winter training bike.

Firstly the Venge Expert Di2 2013, there is a possibility that I could get the 2012 model upgraded to Di2, my local concept store is working on a deal right now with the last 2012 Venge in my size in the UK.  Either would be sans wheels as I already have a set of race wheels & 2 sets of training wheels, makes the deal a little bit sweeter my way.

Secondly the Tarmac Expert SL4 Di2, again sans wheels.

Both are being provided to me to test ride as of Thursday afternoon.

This year I will be doing an Olympic, 1/2 Ironman & IM Wales, this bike will carry me on all 3 races plus a fair chunk of training rides & Sportives this year, beyond this year I suspect the odd 1/2 Ironman & a few sprints & sportives.

So, stiffness over weight?  Weight over stiffness?  Aero over stiffness?

I've never test ridden a bike properly before, what should I try? 

In terms of my cycling ability, not great, I did an 80 mile sportive last year in the Surrey Hills in 5h15 m, my training rides average around 15 mph but with plenty of climbing around 15-20 m per mile average.  I want this investment to be a long term one not just for IMW which is why I am not considering a TT bike.

01/02/2013 at 18:55

Well gee thanks for all the replies!

Anyhow, I rode the Venge Expert today, I took it for a 25 mile ride that I did last weekend, similar conditions both weather & road.  On the Venge I was 8 minutes quicker over the 25 mile route with 550 metres of climbing.  I resisted the urge to smash it, believe me it was tempting, I had to back off in corners due to the wet roads, on a dry day I could take more out.  I'm changing my mind about Di2 as well the Ultegra Groupsan is faultless as it is.

Tomorrow it's the Tarmac Expert.

cougie    pirate
01/02/2013 at 19:49
Nice bikes. If youre after ultimate performance though you need a tt bike and a road bike. For the budget you can get a decent tt and road bike.
cougie    pirate
01/02/2013 at 22:14
To elaborate... What's the price of those bikes - around 4k ?

A 4k bike won't be any faster than a 3k bike. You have race wheels you say - so get a TT frame and group set for a grand or so. It'll give you 1 or even 2 mph over a road bike just due to the more aero position on the tri bars.

You could use it for a year and not lose much value on it at all if you look after it.

Other than that - buy the one you like the most. Not many people on here will have ridden bikes as expensive as that - so I doubt you'll get much first hand advice.
Trust yourself - you can't go wrong unless it doesn't fit.
BluePeter    pirate
03/02/2013 at 09:16
I'm relegating my current bike to 'winter/training' bike as I'm getting a new one in a few weeks. Had the current bike for a couple of years - second hand purchase from eBay. Steel frame, mavic rims shimano 105 etc. it's a decent solid bike. I've been learning all about gear ratios the last few weeks and having checked my bike I have a strange set up or so I think. I have 7 speed cassette ranging 13t to 23t and on the front 52/48, so as I now know his is not going to assist in any hill easy is it for me to change the cassette for a 10 speed and the smaller cog on the from to say a 39 or 34? And what other adjustments do I need to make?
03/02/2013 at 10:44
It depends on how old the frame is and whether it can take a 10 speed cassette. Newer frames have wider frames at the back to accommodate 9 and 10 speed where as some older frames aren't as wide so you are limited. If the frame can take it then you will need a new shifter, cassette and rear mech. You may be better just to look for a better ratio 7 speed with a larger lower gear, something like a 25 or 27.

The front is a little easier to change. Again depending on what chain set it is you may be just able to change the ring to 39 or the other option is to change to a compact chain set which will be something like 50/34. This will help with the hills.
BluePeter    pirate
03/02/2013 at 10:49
Cheers Rocco.,Sounds good. Initially I'm thinking just change the front. The chainset is shimano 105 but only the big ring the small(er) ring is a it appears it is a bit of a hybrid anyway. So do I need to make any other adjustments or can I just buy a new front small ring say a 39 and replace it?
03/02/2013 at 11:00
This for the rear would help

For the front you should be ale to just change the small ring, as long as you get a ring with the right bolt diameter. Standard double is 130mm and compact is 110mm. This is a standard double inner ring

They are just the first 2 I found, other shops are available!
BluePeter    pirate
03/02/2013 at 11:06
Rocco., cheers for this. I had been looking on wiggle etc, I think I will replace like for like ie 7 speed on the rear and get a smaller inner ring for the front. Nice one cheers.
14/02/2013 at 18:03

If anyone is interested we are running a coaching day this Sunday at Darley Moor motor racing circuit (near Ashbourne - between Derby and Stoke on Trent) - 10.30 start through til 1pm - £5 to cover cost of circuit hire.  

Aimed at total novices to riding in groups through to people looking to get into bunch racing (we'll split into two groups based on experience/ability) doing stuff to improve group riding skills.   So right from simple stuff like being comfortable riding next to someone through to drills working on moving up through a bunch or holding a line in a bunch through a corner.  

Anyone interested bring road bike (ie not TT, mountain, bmx or other sort of bike), food/drink/warm kit.   It's pretty low key - we don't have shane sutton or Dave Brailsford turning up to help coach but should be fun and useful.

Britrisky    pirate
25/02/2013 at 23:29

I'm getting some new wheels, because I have a bit of spending money. Currently my bike is on the turbo with a turbo tyre.

Do I - leave the new wheels for outdoor riding, and leave the turbo tyre on the existing wheel for indoor?

or leave the new wheels for races, leave the turbo wheel for indoor, and have a spare cheaper rear wheel for training outdoors? (I know I'll need gears on the new wheel)

or leave the new wheels on for outside, and just have different tyres - grippy ones for training, and slicks for racing?

I really am a numpty on these matters 

cougie    pirate
26/02/2013 at 00:04
Don't use a turbo tyre on the road.

What wheels are you getting ? I wouldn't use very flash wheels through a crappy muddy winter. They will wear faster.

I'd happily use conti gp4000s all year. Bikes don't need tread for their tyres.
26/02/2013 at 09:04

get a new biike, add the race wheels and keep that for the nice days and races

get a cheap rear wheel and cassette and stick the turbo tyre on that and use when turboing on the current bike

swap wheels from turbo to road when using what is now your training bike on the road


you have won, your bank balance has lost 


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