Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,781 to 11,800 of 12,017 messages
Stoatally Different    pirate
21/12/2012 at 21:46

I had heqard a couple of people say they had the elctronic shifting 'die' on them whilst riding, but iirc its a safety issue (certainly on Di2) after a knock, like hitting a big pot hole. It saves teh derailleur from damage and is easily reset

22/12/2012 at 15:15

Aero/TT bars?  Peoples views on worth using, cheap or expensive, are they hard to use/get used to?  Difference to speed for same effort?

 

22/12/2012 at 22:50

Definitely worth fitting.   They can be very cheap.   Pretty easy to get used to if you are a reasonable bike handler - if you are new to cycling might take a bit of time.   You do need to play about with your position though - you'd normally want to lower the bars a bit and maybe push the saddle forwards - get a bit of weight on the tri bars.

Scuba Trooper    pirate
31/12/2012 at 14:38

Numpty questions about on bike spare/kit

I need to get a pump to carry on my bike, do i need one with a gauge and if so why? Are the CO2 inflators worth while?

What other spares and tools shoud I  be carrying on long rides (2-5hrs)?

IronCat5    pirate
31/12/2012 at 14:47

For long rides and the IM I carried multitool, mini-pump, 2 innertubes, park tool levers (very good) and a patch kit.

My pump is a pocket rocket, no gauge. My tyres are folding types and the wheels work just so that I can deflate a tyre and it falls off the rim, so levers not really needed. I have a CO2 inflator now for 'get home' on shorter races.

Scuba Trooper    pirate
31/12/2012 at 15:01

Thanks IronCat.

I'm thinking of getting a inflator and mini pump in one so should cover all bases. Do you just pump until hard and forget about the gauge?

31/12/2012 at 22:47

With a mini pump it'll be a case of get the tyre as hard as you have patience for - to be fair some of them are much better than the mini pumps of a few years ago but you wont have a problem over inflating - 100-110 psi will be about the limit even with a good one - in reality out on the road you'll probably get the tyre to about 90 and think good enough.   

Scuba Trooper    pirate
01/01/2013 at 14:34

Popsider/IronCat - I bought a CO2 inflator with pump from halfords yesterday evening, think i'd use the pump then the CO2 to get it hard.

IronCat - interested in these folding tyres, how does that work?

02/01/2013 at 08:55
Scuba Trooper wrote (see)

Popsider/IronCat - I bought a CO2 inflator with pump from halfords yesterday evening, think i'd use the pump then the CO2 to get it hard.

IronCat - interested in these folding tyres, how does that work?

a CO2 cylinder will get the tyre inflated much more than you will get with a mini-pump.  so use the CO2 and keep the pump as backup to that if things don't work with the CO2 or you run out of cylinders.

I think Cat5's tyres must be loose fitting - I've never had folding tyres that "fall off" when the tube is deflated.  some are easy to finger push over the rims, others are pains and I need to use a lever.

and folding tyres means they are supplied folded because they have flexible but strong kevlar beads as opposed to steel ones which aren't flexible enough to fold.

BWT
02/01/2013 at 22:29

Really stupid question but where would it be most aerodynamic to mount a bike pump on a frame?

 

I know it is a daft question as in a race I will use C02 but just general cycling seemed a good idea to put a pump on... 

I was thinking that mounting on the up tube behind the water bottle would be better than on the front of the frame...  I doubt it makes any really difference as my huge bulk will cancel out any theoretical gains.

04/01/2013 at 17:21

the most aero will be in your back pocket.....

Topeak mini-pumps come with a little holder that sits next to the downtube bottle cage (using the cage bolts) that the pump fits into.  secured with a velcro strap.  works well enough for me and frankly even though it might not be the most aero, but on a training bike why worry??  

VT'd    pirate
05/01/2013 at 10:27

Probably been asked and answered a million times.  I just bought my first TT bike a year after buying my first ever road bike.  I haven't bought wheels as yet, but I'm probably going to buy used to get some value for money.

I haven't a clue about tubulars and believe that most run tubs on TT bikes.  Do they make a massive difference to the ride and what other real world advantage would they give me over deep section carbon clinchers.

Maybe looking at 404's or similar if I'm going for the tubulars and maybe something about 60mm deep if I'm going with the clinchers.

A bit concerneed over the stories of tubs being a bitch to change roadside if I puncture.

 

05/01/2013 at 11:17

The differences are minimal.   The rims are lighter and stronger - if you do puncture the hook required for a clincher is vulnerable to damage on an all carbon rim.  

As far as the ride goes some say tubulars feel a bit nicer and others say they can't notice any difference - tests for rolling resistance show no real advantage - in fact I think the best clinchers come out marginally better.

For punctures I'd rely on sealant and if that fails then I'd probably say game over - but you can carry a spare tub if you want and changing them isn't hard - maybe takes 3-4 minutes longer than changing a tube if you tape the tubular up - if you rely on old glue then about the same.

cougie    pirate
05/01/2013 at 12:19
Are you trying to qualify for kona ? Then if budget permits if probably go tubs.
If you're not - then normal tyres ride 99% as good and in my experience flat less.
TheEngineer    pirate
05/01/2013 at 14:42
cougie wrote (see)
Are you trying to qualify for kona ? Then if budget permits if probably go tubs.
If you're not - then normal tyres ride 99% as good and in my experience flat less.

Even Zipp are saying these days that the difference is negligible, these days... they don't even make a Super 9 in tub...

TheEngineer    pirate
05/01/2013 at 14:43

(but tubs look pro, even if Tony Martin rides clinchers...) 

VT'd    pirate
05/01/2013 at 20:55

Thankyou all for your help, clinchers it is.  And if they produce some sort of miracle of miracles and get me to Kona everyone will want them.

06/01/2013 at 11:40

Folks, as always, looking for some help with a question that will make you slap your foreheads in frustration.

I bought my first TT bike in December, an Aero Ultr TT from Ribble. Good value but as always with Ribble, you buy the bike and nothing else (not even a smile from the shop guys when you pick it up). The plan was to buy a frame size that was right then do a bike fitting session to get the set up just right. 

Anyway, I have only just got this on to the turbo trainer following the silly season and was suprised to see that the seat post only went so far in to the frame (it is obvious when you llook at the picture now). As a result, there is about 8 inches of seat post protruding at it's lowest.

I have e-mailed Ribble to see if there are shorter ones available (there were no options given when ordering), but I am not holding out much hope. If this is the case, does anyone know if you can take a hacksaw to these things without completely buggering them up? It is carbon so I have no idea how it would react or would it be worth takiung it to a bike shop to see what they could do?

Britrisky    pirate
06/01/2013 at 13:43
My LBS did just that on my carbon bike, and didn't charge either
06/01/2013 at 22:13

Stanners - my TT bike was the same - I did just what you suggest - cut the bottom off with a hacksaw - it's dead easy.    

11,781 to 11,800 of 12,017 messages
Previously bookmarked threads are now visible in "Followed Threads". You can also manage notifications on these threads from the "Forum Settings" section of your profile settings page to prevent being sent an email when a reply is made.
Forum Jump  

RW Forums