Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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13/10/2013 at 12:30

On this mornings 45 mile ride in the rain (lovely), I could not use the largest rear ring because it made a loud noise each time I shifted into it.  Now home and looked at, the rear deraileur is scraping the spokes on the wheel.  Never had this before and don`t know why this is happening today.  Tried adjusting using the two screws but no change.  Any ideas anyone?

Mallowpuff    pirate
13/10/2013 at 13:09

Zinn and the Art of Mountain/Road Bike Maintenance are good books. Break everything down nicely, good clear diagrams. Getting a workstand helps a lot too. Hated fiddling with gears without one, now it's a joy!

13/10/2013 at 13:11

Well 99.9% either the cage ( bit that will be touching the spokes) is bent or else it's moving too far over.    If it's changing gear fine it's probably not bent just moving too far over - in which turning the correct limit screw clockwise should fix it.  

As you say it hasn't fixed it make a visual check that you are tightening the correct screw and that it is contacting the part of the mech that blocks it moving any further inwards.   If the screw is doing that maybe the cage or rear mech is loose or something like that but my money is on it just needing adjustment.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
13/10/2013 at 13:14

It could be you've bent the rear mech or the hanger slightly - if you look at it from directly behind the bike does it look vertical?

The two screws you're talking about are the limiter screws.  They don't actually adjust the mech other than stop it moving across too far, and if it's been badly set up in the first place you might need to wind it quite a way - keep going until it stops the chain going on to the large cog at all, then wind it back a bit.  If the mech still rubs the spokes then either somethings very loose or it's bent.

Mallowpuff    pirate
13/10/2013 at 13:16

Had a similar issue on my mtb t'other week, but it wasn't the spokes it was catching on, the top jocket wheel was being pulled in too close to the cassette. Adjusting the b screw got that sorted

13/10/2013 at 13:40

The bit that hangs down (im guessing that`s the `hanger`), is not quite vertical (leans very slightly in) and on thinking about it, last ride last Sunday, I did have one of those embarrassing didn`t get my shoe un-clipped in time tumbles.  Rode ok for 6miles after, but it was flat so I wouldn`t have used the inner cog.  Sounds like I`ve bent the hanger??  It wasn`t shifting that great today either (I have Shimano Sora, so it`s never brilliant).  Just pull it out a bit or a trip to the LBS.

13/10/2013 at 17:36

You could try bending it straight,  could be  the cage on the mech that is bent or the  hanger ( the bit the mech attaches to - probably looks like a replaceable part of your frame).     

If you can get it vertical you might have to reset the limit screws if you've adjusted them.    

13/10/2013 at 17:37

Ps - I meantry and bend the cage straight, be a bit wary about trying t o bend the hanger

13/10/2013 at 17:52

Thanks all for your advice.  I`ve eased it out and it looks pretty straight now and not rubbing on the spokes.  Test will be on the next ride.  However, I think this fault should be grounds for a new bike.  Planet X doing their RT57 race geometry carbon road bike with SRAM Force for £1100.    Now, how do I convince Mrs DoM.

24/10/2013 at 21:25

My turbo trainer is starting to make the occasional squeak. What do I need to oil and what maintenance do I need to do to keep it working?

28/10/2013 at 11:15

today's numpty question, one that's been bugging me for a long time

why do people push their bike by the saddle in transition? it's always seemed much easier to me to push it by the handlebars

cougie    pirate
28/10/2013 at 11:24
If you push it by the saddle then you're away from the bars and can run better ?
Holding the bars you're more dragging the bike I guess.
I don't really think it makes much difference - personal preference ?

I don't know what I do !
28/10/2013 at 13:55
gatters wrote (see)

today's numpty question, one that's been bugging me for a long time

why do people push their bike by the saddle in transition? it's always seemed much easier to me to push it by the handlebars

for those triathletes - me included - who leave their shoes in their pedals when they dismount, it means you can run plus lift the rear of the bike up a little using the saddle which helps stop the shoes dragging on the ground. 

and as cougs says, it's also easier to run that way - try it sometime and see the difference.

28/10/2013 at 14:10

And you dont crack your shins on the pedals like wot I do

PSC    pirate
15/11/2013 at 22:16
Evening all....

Can anyone recommend some good quality rear mounted bottle cages? Chum of mine (based in India) is asking. Will be fitted on a road bike for IM distance racing. I haven't got a clue what advice to give. Cheers peeps.
cougie    pirate
15/11/2013 at 22:38
Can't remember what mine were but they held the bottles well. I'd go for alloy if I were buying again - you can tighten them up by squishing them. You can't do that with carbon.
Cheerful Dave    pirate
15/11/2013 at 22:43

I have an Xlab bracket behind the seat for bottles which wors really well, but like cougie I have an old alloy cage on it rather than the Xlab ones or a carbon one.

PSC    pirate
15/11/2013 at 22:46
Yep good call. I've never brought any as I've seen so many intact cage units on the side of the road. Normally about 3m past a big bump in the road. Lol. Matey of mine isn't adopting aero bars though so that removes the obvious front end hydration system of choice for most of us.
PSC    pirate
15/11/2013 at 22:47
Oops x-post. Thanks Dave.
cougie    pirate
17/11/2013 at 18:05
I saw the weirdest sight at challenge Henley. Three or four of those triangular aero bottles in the road. I'm guessing there was a bump that their cages didn't like.
No point in saving a few seconds if you've no fluids.
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