Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues
Stanners - my TT bike was the same - I did just what you suggest - cut the bottom off with a hacksaw - it's dead easy.
apparently you need a specific diamond encrsted blade, but a v fine blade apparently does ok - to stop ripping the carbon fibres rather than cutting them.
do a few googles / utube searches and good luck.
(I took mine to a shop to get the steerer tube done as there was less room for maneouver)
I did it with a junior hacksaw from B&Q and it cuts a lot easier than an alloy steerer - OC is having you on I think !
All the bike shop will do is get a junior hacksaw - draw a line on the seatpost and cut it - there is no possible way you can mess it up.
The reason some bikes have a limit for inserting the post is because the seat tube is reinforced to a certain depth to avoid the seatpost damaging it - they expect you to cut the post shorter.
if you are doing it DIY - just remember to measure twice and cut once.....
I'd possibly put more pressure in and tighten the turbo onto the tyre more
I don't have a max resistance setting on my turbo - it's an Elite Chronogel - but I have seen some slippage when standing in top gear. it seems to be when they tyre's deflated a bit - so do as 7755 suggests.
Finally took my race wheels and tyres off the bike and put them in a box until the sun shines. Should I deflate the tyres or leave them hard? Thanks folks .
Oh... that slippage always happens on mine. Just thought that you were ill advised to get out of the saddle on a turbo. More evidence that I don't know an arse from an onion.
stil - I just leave my race wheels as they come off the bike. the tubes will deflate as time goes by - just reinflate when you need them again. never had a problem doing that - and the tyres and tubes have been on for at least 3 years now. just make sure you check the tyres over on re-use for any damage, signs of perishing etc.
Cheers Buddha. Appreciated.Just back from a first proper ride since changing the 12-27 I used for IMW back to the 12-25 I had before. Massively improved ride. It's smoother, quieter and more responsive, even after swapping out my race wheels and tyres for the old Comos and Gator HardShells. This bike riding lark's full of surprises .
Numpty questions about cold weather kit.
I've started to up my bike rides from nothing to 1:30hrs its not warm out there in the mornings. I am training for Challenge Henley so this will increase up to 6hrs over the next few months.
I have noticed my feet getting colder and colder not to bad for an hour, will the coldness increase as the hours increase or do you reach a steady state where the effort compensates for the windchill? If not overshoes appear to be the answer. Are the material oversocks worthwhile or should I just go for neoprene and have done with it? Is there an inbetween?
Secondly what are the advanatges and disadvantages of bid shorts over normal bike shorts or tri shorts. I haven't noticed getting a cold back or stomach?
As always you knowledge and experince is appreciated.
Just get neoprene - the material ones help but not as much - and you can make them out of a pair of socks anyway. The material ones are more for Autumn and Spring and arguably as much a fashion thing as something you need.
Bib shorts just fit better and if you wear race fit jerseys you probably will find a gap between your shorts and jersey if you wear non-bibs .
I'm considering a new shiny bike, 2 in the offing at the moment, both Specialized. I have a bike already which will be relegated to a winter training bike.
Firstly the Venge Expert Di2 2013, there is a possibility that I could get the 2012 model upgraded to Di2, my local concept store is working on a deal right now with the last 2012 Venge in my size in the UK. Either would be sans wheels as I already have a set of race wheels & 2 sets of training wheels, makes the deal a little bit sweeter my way.
Secondly the Tarmac Expert SL4 Di2, again sans wheels.
Both are being provided to me to test ride as of Thursday afternoon.
This year I will be doing an Olympic, 1/2 Ironman & IM Wales, this bike will carry me on all 3 races plus a fair chunk of training rides & Sportives this year, beyond this year I suspect the odd 1/2 Ironman & a few sprints & sportives.
So, stiffness over weight? Weight over stiffness? Aero over stiffness?
I've never test ridden a bike properly before, what should I try?
In terms of my cycling ability, not great, I did an 80 mile sportive last year in the Surrey Hills in 5h15 m, my training rides average around 15 mph but with plenty of climbing around 15-20 m per mile average. I want this investment to be a long term one not just for IMW which is why I am not considering a TT bike.
Well gee thanks for all the replies!
Anyhow, I rode the Venge Expert today, I took it for a 25 mile ride that I did last weekend, similar conditions both weather & road. On the Venge I was 8 minutes quicker over the 25 mile route with 550 metres of climbing. I resisted the urge to smash it, believe me it was tempting, I had to back off in corners due to the wet roads, on a dry day I could take more out. I'm changing my mind about Di2 as well the Ultegra Groupsan is faultless as it is.
Tomorrow it's the Tarmac Expert.
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