Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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14/06/2013 at 10:41

Can be lifting your head too much with a too low stem, is it something that has only just started happening? 

Mr StOat    pirate
14/06/2013 at 11:25

Yes, its been fine up until the last couple of rides, which is weird

TheEngineer    pirate
14/06/2013 at 11:43
7755matt wrote (see)

At the end of rides recently I've been getting an ache / pain right in between my shoulders. Any ideas what it could be and what I could try / change to ease it. Not looking forward to a marathon with back ache

Cycling is cheating, anyway.


Serious note - as gazhilla said maybe you are too low at the front. This doesn't necessarily mean the pain is coming from looking up, but that you're putting too much of your weight through the bars and consequently tightening up your back. MAy be worth moving up a couple of spacers or flipping the stem?

(Caveat - I'm no bike fitter!) 

14/06/2013 at 11:52

Strange if nothing has changed, have you upped distance and its maybe showing up a fitting issue? 

14/06/2013 at 14:22

matt - are you using tr-bars at the mo??? if so that could be just down to conditioning.

otherwise - may just be a transient issue

Mr StOat    pirate
14/06/2013 at 18:15

I have clip ons, but they havent caused an issue, the last two rides I haven't had them on. Im hoping its just a transient issue. Will go for another spin tomorrow and see how it all feels, will try without clip ons and then with

As for the TT bike position, that needs sorting as it cripples me!

Edited: 14/06/2013 at 18:16
22/06/2013 at 14:47

Oh the shame! Just found a picture of myself from the Windsor Triathlon (didn't take part but the photographer must have been bored) when I cycled past. 

There is a sequence of about 5 pictures and on two of them my left crank is at about 30 degress to the vertical and the leg is coming back up. I'm pointing my toe in the most ridiculous fashion. Sadly there are no shots of the right leg. 

My thoughts:

Saddle could be too high. However I doubt this because I had a mate fit the saddle height for me and my leg is definitely not locked out or too straight. 

I was a couple of hours into a ride and a bit tired that day - is it just laziness? Can it just be corrected with me making sure to think of keeping my heal down. 

Or something else...?

I don't have any injuries related to cycling but I guess this crap look could head towards that? I looked through a couple of photos on the internet and no one else rides there bike like that! 

22/06/2013 at 20:01

link ?

cougie    pirate
23/06/2013 at 15:34
Some people do point their toes - even pros. I don't think it's a bad thing ?
23/06/2013 at 16:34

No laughing allowed:

I seriously doubt I'm riding how the pros do. 

Mr StOat    pirate
27/06/2013 at 23:06

Need to replace the BB and the head bearings.

Its a square taper BB so will any square taper fit?

The headrace bearings are ball and race, can I replace them with nicer sealed bearing units? Its a Scott S30 (2010) so fairly standard I reckon.

Should then last longer / need less looking after. Its the turbo / winter / take away for work bike so low maintenance, highly durabel is always good

28/06/2013 at 09:32

square taper BB - make sure it's an English thread, not Italian; get the right bracket width; and make sure the taper is the right length (depends on chainring setup)

best way to check is to take chaingrings off and measure BB width and overall width and then go look for a new one.  ime - the more you pay, the longer it will last.  

you might be able to replace headset bearings with a sealed unit but that will depend on the tubing but I would think on rthat bike you should be OK - LBS would be best people to advise though.   again, higher the price, the better quality - Chris King if you can afford it 

28/06/2013 at 09:41

No you need the same taper, same width and same thread for the bottom bracket.  

For Scott it'll be English thread but you need to know the chainset to determine what bottom bracket you need.

Have yountried cleaning and greasing the headset - if that doesn't work I'd replace like with like as bearings are very cheap from bearing shops - not so cheap from some bike shops.   Not an expert on headsets/bearings but I doubt you can use sealed cartridge bearings without a whole new headset.

28/06/2013 at 09:42

Ffs it takes so long correcting all the typos on an ipad everything i post is a X-post!

28/06/2013 at 09:59

get an ipad blutooth keyboard - will keep you at the front of the peloton then....

JD.    pirate
06/07/2013 at 08:31

hi fb/pirates - wondering if you can recommend some good narrower summer tyres for teh mtb on the ridgeway?  current tyres are over two inches, heavy, great for winter but not for keeping up in summer with the mtb group.  so i'm hoping i can shed a bit of weight/rolling resistance on the wheels (and do some trianing too of course).



cougie    pirate
08/07/2013 at 17:04
JD ! How the devil are you !?

Not much idea on the tyres sorry - I've been running Schwalbe marathons on my cross bike instead of riding my MTB - bloody bombproof off road and still manageable on road.
08/07/2013 at 17:27

hi JD - long time no see fella...

size will depend on what rims you are running but a lot of standard MTB hoops will take a smaller size than 2+".  I doubt you'll be able to go as low as 1.5" which is generally the smallest MTB size but you might get away with a 1.75".   what are the wheel rims??

the other thing to look at is to go tubeless by adapting the wheels to use something like Stans NoTubes latex as that will drop the roling weight by a fair bit.  it works well - P has it on her MTB.  it's a bit of a faff to get it set up but when it's done it's fine and the wheels roll quicker.   but it will depend on the rim and you will probably need to get a different tyre better suited for this purposes - Schwalbe have a good range.

I'm putting USB tubeless hoops on my new MTB to keep the weight down but that's a complete new build

JD.    pirate
12/07/2013 at 10:04

all good here thanks Cougie, usual undertrained self, two happy (mostly) kids now, another on the way in October if all goes well.  you and yours all happy i hope?

thanks FB and sorry for the slow reply - finally got to check my rims, they just say SUN RIM on them and made in the USA - not so helpful.  The current tyres are Maxxis high roller 2.35.  is there a tyre you'd recommend?  tubeless sounds interesting though.

re tyres, would you recommend something like this?

would 1.8 be ok?  or better to go for the 2.1?  


thanks for your help


12/07/2013 at 10:57

don't know SUN rims but having checked their website they have a range and seem OK

if you're running 2.35s, then no wonder you're finding them slow! they have some seious volume in them so great in winter mud but slow on hardpack

I run those Panaracers on my full-sus Yeti - great all year round tyre with some serious grip, but aren't so fast on dry surfaces so wouldn't be my choice for dry surfaces.

you need to look at some tyres with less midline knobs on them for hardpack - something like Schwalbe Furious Fred Evolution or Michelin Wildracer as examples.  lots of similar out there but Schwalbe always get good ratings so would probaby be my pick - I used to run precursors of Wildracers (when they came in green) and loved them.

and go for folding ones - bit pricier but as they have kevlar beading, a bit stronger and slightly more puncture proof

I don't think you need to go for 1.8s - between 1.9 and 2.1 will be fine if you choose a tyre like I suggested - you'll be zipping along!


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