Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues
If anyone is interested we are running a coaching day this Sunday at Darley Moor motor racing circuit (near Ashbourne - between Derby and Stoke on Trent) - 10.30 start through til 1pm - £5 to cover cost of circuit hire.
Aimed at total novices to riding in groups through to people looking to get into bunch racing (we'll split into two groups based on experience/ability) doing stuff to improve group riding skills. So right from simple stuff like being comfortable riding next to someone through to drills working on moving up through a bunch or holding a line in a bunch through a corner.
Anyone interested bring road bike (ie not TT, mountain, bmx or other sort of bike), food/drink/warm kit. It's pretty low key - we don't have shane sutton or Dave Brailsford turning up to help coach but should be fun and useful.
I'm getting some new wheels, because I have a bit of spending money. Currently my bike is on the turbo with a turbo tyre.
Do I - leave the new wheels for outdoor riding, and leave the turbo tyre on the existing wheel for indoor?
or leave the new wheels for races, leave the turbo wheel for indoor, and have a spare cheaper rear wheel for training outdoors? (I know I'll need gears on the new wheel)
or leave the new wheels on for outside, and just have different tyres - grippy ones for training, and slicks for racing?
I really am a numpty on these matters
get a new biike, add the race wheels and keep that for the nice days and races
get a cheap rear wheel and cassette and stick the turbo tyre on that and use when turboing on the current bike
swap wheels from turbo to road when using what is now your training bike on the road
you have won, your bank balance has lost
Just out of interest, what's the worst that would happen if I didn't keep my new wheels 'for best'?
They should be fine for Summer use anyway. They aren't tubulars or all carbon rims are they - if they were I'd say maybe save them for best - but otherwise I'd use them say from April through to October certainly on dry days anyway.
The wet and road salt in Winter will wear wheels a lot faster, damp can get into the bearings and salt and muck wears the rims when you brake and most people try and use something a bit cheaper, but even then the occasional ride in the wet isn't something to worry about.
You might be unlucky and damage one in a crash or pot hole but it doesn't happen often.
I return with another numpty question.
Just got back from a long ride and on the last hill only 500m from home i changed gear heard a crunch and spinning peddles. Once I'd unclipped in a panic not ot fall off and looked round I could see my chain on the floor behind me.
I have a power link thing and a couple of replacement pins but I was wondering whether I should consider replacing the chain rather than a repair. It’s an YBN brand chain but the bike is second hand so I have no idea how many miles the chain has done. I have Shimano group set, mainly 105. I'm training for Challange Henely so will be clocking a fair few miles in the next 4 months.
Not sure if this is relevant or a different problem, I have notice when on the small chain ring and smaller sprockets on the cassette the chain rubs a little on the inside of the large chain ring.
Thanks in advance for you assistance.
+1 with JT
out of curiosity, was it the powerlink that failed or a standard chain link? I've used powerlinks on my road and mountain bikes for years - saves a lot of faffing around if you need to get a chain off - and only had one of them fail on me in all that time.
as for the rubbing - yes it can happen - and the simple answer is to avoid using the combination you used (or vice versa with large chainring and large cassette ring) as it means your chain is at full cross over. it's more efficient if you can try to keep the chain as much in a straight line as possible.
Thanks for the replies chaps.
I've had a look at and count of my current cassette and it is a 12-25 and its 50-34 at the front with a 175 crank. Would a straight replacement make sense? Its my first year riding, I am doing ok and have managed to get up to 60 miles and am ring 3 time a week ever week ( come from a marathon running background. I have been using the 25 at the end of longish climbs but I have been staying in the seat. I only get out of the seat if I find I'm on the big ring at the end of a smaller hill and can't be bothered to change.
Is it worth me spending £10-15 for the specialist tools and trying to do it myself this means I can probably save £20-30 on the cost of the components and maybe the same on labour compared to the LBS. I'm new to bike maintenance but generally reasonable capable with DIY etc.
The other thing I've been looking at is upgrading to Ulterga which would only be £18 more for chain and cassette than 105 is it worth it?
doing it yourself is very straightforward when you've done it a few times.
to expand on jt's post, you will also need a cassette lockring removal tool - I think jt is calling this a spline remover - Shimano specific of course but many companies make them. getting used to using a chainwhip is the hardest part but once you know how it works, it's easy (loads of YouTube vids around or go to the Park Tools website for info).
you are also supposed to refit the lockring at the correct torque (around 40nM - should be marked on the lockring) so a torque wrench could be useful as well but again with experience, you tend to get a feel for what 40nM feels like. but you can use a torque wrench for all sorts of tightening so it's a worthwhile tool to have in your armoury (mine came from Lidl for about £12 I think)
and one other thing when putting a chain back on - get a piece of wire (an old coat hanger is good) about 10cm long and bend the ends down so they fit inside a link at either end and use that to hold the chain together while you're rejoining it, otherwise you'll frustrate yourself fighting against the deraileur spring tension! make sure you leave enough links free so you can fiddle about with the rejoining. believe me that bit of wire will be your chain friend for life for zero cost!!!
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