Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,841 to 11,860 of 11,977 messages
10/07/2014 at 12:35

Long time since this thread has seen the light of day.  My bottom bracket is making all sorts of creaking and clicking noises particularly under load, a bit of googling and youtubing suggests I'm going to need one of these and one of these to actually dis-assemble it, but the question to the experts out there is, any hints or tips for what I'm looking out for?  Most of what I've read so far seems to suggest grease and re-assemble or replace. 

Tired Badger    pirate
10/07/2014 at 14:24

I had the same on my winter bike earlier in the year, I needed to replace one of the cups as it had siezed, I got an intergrated version of the above;

But also found that i needed to ensure i greased the crank arms on replacement as they started creeking.


I'm definitely no expert though  


01/08/2014 at 21:04

Does anyone know any weekly training rides/chain gangs near Sidmouth/Exeter sort of area - anything that doesn't mind someone joining in - I'm down there on holiday in a few weeks and wouldn't mind trying out something new.   

02/08/2014 at 18:58

I've had a set of Mavic Cosmic CXR60s for about 3 months now and I'm not happy with how they are bearing up.

The brake track on the rear has turned silver, cosmetic right now but I wonder what damage or degradation has been done, the correct pads are fitted.  The front is still as new colour i.e. black, they have treated carbon tracks rather than ali.  Also on the rear there is (was) a valve guide that has parted company with the rim and left strands of CF, this happened today just riding along the noise from the rear got worse and worse as it was vibrating in the rim and resonating through the whole bike before falling out, miraculously I stopped and found it in the road.

3 months down the line, what do you reckon my chances are of a swap under 'manufacturing error/fault'?


02/08/2014 at 19:16

Generally speaking under Sale of Goods Act any failure within 6 months can be called as 'manufacturing error', provided you've not been using them to open beer bottles (or other non cycling related things) you've got a legal recourse.

02/08/2014 at 19:42

Thanks, I wasn't sure re time elapsed so that's very helpful.

flyaway    pirate
02/08/2014 at 20:40

Pops - maybe ask on these guy's Facebook?

02/08/2014 at 22:21
flyaway wrote (see)

Pops - maybe ask on these guy's Facebook?

Ta had assumed the place was probably too small for a club.  

10/11/2014 at 22:33

Question for the wise ones on here. What is the best torque wrench for using on a carbon fibre bike, it has the saddle marked at 8 and bottle cage holes at 5, all in newton metres whatever they are. Mr Steady has torque wrenches but they are for using on cars so much too high a setting on them.

11/11/2014 at 09:19

Depending on how friendly you are with the LBS, they may be able to tighten to the correct settings for you if you're really worried.

Failing that, it depends how precious you want to be about getting the correct torque. Anything below 10 to me is a "tighten it up so its snug, but don't go mental" type of setting. Sorry I can't be more precise =(

11/11/2014 at 11:17

Thanks DaylightR, I have a very practical husband who loves tools so it gives him a chance to find something new and shiny to buy for himself as well as for me to use.  I like your calibration of tightness, sounds like a good system for the most part.

TheEngineer    pirate
11/11/2014 at 11:35

It is worth having the tools. Bike shops sell a range for different budgets and you can't really go wrong if you buy from there.

Two main types: ratcheting and beam. The ratcheting type will allow you to tighten the fastener to the chosen setting and then "click", at which point the wrench will stop torquing the fastener and rotate a bit. These are more common.

The other type (and my preferred type though less common) is the beam type. This will have two metal beams coming from the head of the wrench rather than one - one has the handle and a gauge plate, and the other has an arrow or indicator which lines up with the gauge. This type won't release at a given setting - you don't need to set it - you just apply force gently and increase until the tool is bending such that the value on the gauge is correct. Really simple, easy to see what you're doing, and you don't have to worry about checking you set the wrench up correctly. Park Tools sell one for smaller fasteners (TW-1) and one for a higher range of torques (TW-2). You'll want the TW-1.

Another tip is to make sure you get some carbon fibre assembly paste. This isn't like normal grease, but will increase the friction between the mating surfaces - this ensures the part stay tight together without needing excessive force which would crack a carbon fibre component. Multiple brands are available, I use this: 

11/11/2014 at 12:58

Thanks TE, I knew someone would know the details.
I was only aware of the ratcheting type and totally ignorant of carbon fibre assembly paste. 


Razor51    pirate
14/11/2014 at 19:22

My Giant is 8 speed and I was thinking of changing it to 9 speed and increasing the cassette to a 32 tooth, what implications would this have on the derailier apart from changing the chain what else do I need to do? 

cougie    pirate
14/11/2014 at 20:44
You'd need a new shifter too ? Possibly a rear mech ?
What's the 32 for ?
Razor51    pirate
15/11/2014 at 12:22

I'm shit on hills Cougie  

15/11/2014 at 16:00

you will probably need a mid length cage rear deralier - so it can handle the longer chain when you are in a high gear.

I have no idea if 8 and 9 speed fit cassetes fit on the same freewheel - (ie wheels take 10 or 11 speed - the 10s just have a little spacer added)

Do you have a compact chain set.  If so, a 32 will mean you can get up just about anything

15/11/2014 at 19:38
9 speed should fit on the 8 speed freewheel but with a 32 you'll need a medium or long cage rear mech, new shifters and chain. If you don't have a compact that would be the easiest change IMO.
Razor51    pirate
15/11/2014 at 22:02

Thanks guys, I'm on a compact.

16/11/2014 at 19:02
Can somebody explain to me how it's possible to get a puncture on the turbo?

- continental turbo tyre that's never been outside so nothing in the tyre
- not the rim tape as the hole was on the outside of the tube

This has happened twice in 2 months, pin prick sized hole in the tube both times.
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