Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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08/04/2013 at 18:37

Thanks again chaps.

I'm going to give it a go doing it myself, I have a mate who knows what he is doing so will rope him in I think and borrow some of this tools too.

FB - It was a normal link that went. Is there an advantage in using a power link when I connect the new chain or use a pin?

I'm going to go with 12-25 unless someone can give me a good reason to go for a 11 or 23 instead, I'm not going to be at the pointy end of thing and hope to finish 12:30-14:00hrs.

08/04/2013 at 18:53
fat buddha wrote (see)

and one other thing when putting a chain back on - get a piece of wire (an old coat hanger is good) about 10cm long and bend the ends down so they fit inside a link at either end and use that to hold the chain together while you're rejoining it, otherwise you'll frustrate yourself fighting against the deraileur spring tension!  make sure you leave enough links free so you can fiddle about with the rejoining.  believe me that bit of wire will be your chain friend for life for zero cost!!!

Good tip but I would make sure the chain is threaded around the chainstay and rear mech correctly but instead of tensioning it around the front chain wheels leave the chain loose. Refit the link and then thread it back over the chain wheels.

08/04/2013 at 18:57

God I need so much help, with my compact set up do i need a 114 or 116 link chain.

08/04/2013 at 19:05
Doesn't really matter a 10 spd should be fine... You can take your old one off and literally count the links in it.... You will take a crap load of links off anyway....

And Buddha is correct about the wire it works a treat!
09/04/2013 at 09:21

"FB - It was a normal link that went. Is there an advantage in using a power link when I connect the new chain or use a pin?"

I always use a powerlink, both on new chains and in case of an emergency (carry on in my saddlepack) simply as it make future removaland repair a damn sight easier than having to fiddle around with pins and chainbreakers.   chains have a special pin that should be the one you use for connecting and removing chains, but can you find the bugger when the chain's all cacked up?? no.  so a powerlink takes away that problem.

"Good tip but I would make sure the chain is threaded around the chainstay and rear mech correctly but instead of tensioning it around the front chain wheels leave the chain loose. Refit the link and then thread it back over the chain wheels."

yep - that 's another easy way to do it, and you can use a wire then as well, as just having something to pull the ends together makes life a whole load easier!  in the wild, I've evan used a stick and some plaited grass to do the same thing.

09/04/2013 at 09:24

also 

"I'm going to go with 12-25 unless someone can give me a good reason to go for a 11 or 23 instead, I'm not going to be at the pointy end of thing and hope to finish 12:30-14:00hrs."

you should be fine with a 12-25 (that's standard for a compact) but for more comfort when you get tired, you might want to consider a 12-27.

09/04/2013 at 10:25

I've got a compact and 12-27 but it is specifically a hill climbing set up.  It's hilly round here!


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