Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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12/07/2013 at 16:55

let us know what you go for 

I've got some Hutchinson Python tubeless going onto my new build - looking forward to getting to grips with it soon.

http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/catalogue-vtt.php?fiche=python-end-tlr.php&univers=5&pid=94

12/07/2013 at 23:16

Please advise, I have just fitted new wheels and tyres to my road bike. I put on a new cassette as well, 9 speed 11-25T as I currently have on it. Same chain as only 9 months old with not much riding this winter.  Put it all together and just doesn`t feel right.  Won`t go onto the last (smallest) cog and doesn`t feel smooth as if it`s not marrying up right. I have a Shimano Sora rear derailleur and the `Wiggle` reviews said the cassette (Shimano HG50) would fit.  Am I making some schoolboy error.  I have never taken the rear wheel off and played around with the rear D before.  Tried taking off and puting back on a few times, but still the same.  Could just go to LBS, but feel I need to be able to do the basics in case i`m 20 miles from home and a problem occurs.   

OrangeCannon kona-6    pirate
13/07/2013 at 00:28

you have a yeti FB...... *jealous*

JD.    pirate
13/07/2013 at 07:53

FB - just wondering, with the Furious Fred's have you had any puncture issues?  Lack of puncture resistance is mentioned a few times in the tyre reviews.

i guess the ridgeway is all chalk so flint/punctures aren't so much of an issue.  i'd probably use slime tubes anyway so perhaps that would help reduce the puncture problem.

JD.
JD.    pirate
13/07/2013 at 08:36

Dreaming of Magic, just turn the barrel adjuster (just where the wire enters teh rear mech) a little.  that should do it.  if that doesn't work the limiter screws may need adjusting but i'd have thought tha'ts unlikely.

JD.
WhizKid    pirate
13/07/2013 at 09:16

To be honest dreaming of magic I think it's the limiter screws like JD said, when adjusting with them only turn a quarter turn a time adventually the derailleur will sit correctly, check its done correctly in the bike stand or whatever in all gears and with the chain in the big and small ring at the front as this can adjust the angle the chain can sit in accordance with the rear cassette.... Ideally the chain should be as straight as possible when riding anyway I.e. big ring at front smaller at back and small at front larger at the back..... Oh and take it for a test ride after too as adding strain is important !

13/07/2013 at 10:48

Ok, I have three screws above where the cable enters the rear D.  Two as part of the main body and one just above. Have tried turning the one nearest the cable about 2 turns each way, but no change.  Keep turning or is it the other screws?

 

WhizKid    pirate
13/07/2013 at 17:01

The 2 limiter screws are next too each other usually with H and L on the the one nearest the derailleur adjusts where the derailleur sits height wise

13/07/2013 at 17:51

Bingo!  Seems to be ok now. Half turn of the upper one did the trick. Haven`t tested on the road yet.

Many thanks for your help JD and WhizKid.

 

JD.    pirate
24/07/2013 at 21:18

Hi FB - I went for the cheap michelin wild race tyres in the end.  i've just done my standard 5 mile loop two minutes faster than the fastest i'd ever done it before!  not exactly scientific test but i've done the loop in the dry before when i was fitter last year.

Anyway, there's something wrong with the tyres i think.  they kind of kick as i'm going along (on a tarmac downhill at the end).  i noticed they sort of bulge in places.  is that ok?  seems a bit dodgy to me and i'm a little worried it'll contribute to me being thrown off at some point.

These are the ones i bought:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=104538

perhaps i should have gone for the reinforced ones.

 

 

JD.
25/07/2013 at 11:19

Hi JD

sorry - can't really comment on what's wrong with the Michelins as I don't recall any issues when I rode their precursors.

when you say they "kick" - is this as you go round a bend?  I'm thinking here that it's the larger knobs on the edge "catching" on tarmac doing that. when you're riding in a straight line then it would be fine as you're on the smoother centre tread.  you probably wouldn't see any issues like this off road.  maybe you are just seeing something that isn't an issue but as they are very new to you, and a different pattern to the old ones, then it's a familiarity thing.

as for bulges - I'd always be suspicious of bulges in tyres but that will depend on how large and where.  MTB tyres are never fully smooth near the rims ime and it's maybe that they just need to settle in.   but if it's a bulge that is really protruding, then I'd question the build quality and get them replaced.

and I'd always go for folding tyres....

I should get my new steed by the weekend - looking forward to getting on the Downs on that  

IronCat5    pirate
25/07/2013 at 11:58

Hi FB,

I think you may have done this somewhere already. Could you describe your MTB setup for Xterra? I'm considering some MTB duathlons over winter.

 

25/07/2013 at 14:21

IC5 - you have mail...

Rafiki    pirate
25/07/2013 at 14:23

Posted this on another thread the other day, but it may have gotten lost in the recent IT melt down, but....

Picked up my new Fixie yesterday. After putting it all together I adjusted the chain tensioners so there was about 1/2 to 3/4 of inch play in the chain. But after turning the crank maybe half a turn, the chain was taught with no play at all. A further turn of the crank, there was half inch of play again - and so on. Now is the crank is out of alignment, or is it a partially worn chain.....or me just being crap??

25/07/2013 at 14:26

have you checkd the chain to see if you have a stiff link somewhere??  if that's not engaging properly that maybe the cause

Rafiki    pirate
25/07/2013 at 14:53

Just had a good look - doesn't appear to be any.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
25/07/2013 at 15:37

Probably just slightly out of alignment Raf, or maybe the chainring isn't perfect - it doesn't take much to take up the slack.  A partially worn chain would do it too - it only needs one slightly worn link - if it's on the chainring there won't be any slack, somewhere between chainring and cog and the chain is ever so slightly longer which gives you that half inch of movement.

You don't want it completely taught, it'll wear very quickly that way.  Set it to half an inch of play at the tightest point, if you have a bit more than that at it's loosest it won't be a problem, the chain isn't going to come off.

Which fixie did you get?

Rafiki    pirate
25/07/2013 at 15:44

Thanks both - I've adjusted it to about half an inch play, so it should be ok.

I bought a State Bicycle Co. Matt Black 3. Its nothing fancy, just a bit of fun for running around on - and so far I'm loving it! Although I have been challenged by my local tri club to do an Olly on it next month - guess I'll have to attached the back brake before then

Bouncing Barlist    pirate
25/07/2013 at 17:40

Its a lesser spotted JD  

Hello

Guess youre just here scoping out the forum looking for the IM Austria 2015 10th anniverary thread

Edited: 25/07/2013 at 17:40
Cheerful Dave    pirate
25/07/2013 at 19:40
Rafiki wrote (see)

Although I have been challenged by my local tri club to do an Olly on it next month - guess I'll have to attached the back brake before then

If you've set it up with a single speed freewheel you're OK (if a bit mad if it's anything other than a flat course) but fixed gear bikes are banned usually.

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