Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

11,861 to 11,880 of 11,977 messages
12/12/2014 at 23:07

If anyone is close enough and fancies a bike rider over Xmas I've organised a ride on the 28th Dec from the Broadway pub, Duffield Rd, Derby 

2 groups, same route, social pace group leave 9am, faster pace group leave 9.30.  About 60 miles with a cafe stop late on after which most will roll back the 10  miles or so.  

Weather permitting should be decent sized groups and it's not all one club so nobody is going to ask if you are "local".    If anyone does fancy it pm me and I can give you a gpx of the route.

The Silent Assassin    pirate
08/04/2015 at 16:51

Think this have been asked before but here goes


My brand new carbon TT bike has just arrived, I'm in the process of getting it fited and I notice that seat post over goes so far down due the the shape of the frame, I need to lose about an inch and a half, so the question is can I just cut it off my self, file the edges down, don't know much about carbon and don't want to damaged the seat post


08/04/2015 at 18:00
Royles had to cut an inch off mine, Graham just used a hacksaw..... But I hadn't paid for it when he did it
08/04/2015 at 23:26

I did one with a hacksaw too - seemed pretty easy. 

Cheerful Dave    pirate
09/04/2015 at 07:58

Using a fine-tooth blade and a bit of tape around the bit you're cutting will give you a cleaner cut, but it's a seat tube so neatness isn't really an issue.  Steerer tubes need a bit more care.

10/04/2015 at 13:16

A question to those more experienced than me...i.e. everyone. Out on my ride today a guy came past me and shouted something like "your brakes aren't centered". It was windy and I didn't quite catch it. Shouted for him to repeat and he did but he was even further away and didn't hear him then either. I stopped and checked for anything mechanical but there was nothing obvious.

Now, he could have been shouting anything I guess, including but not restricted to "You're a crap cyclist" "You have an unimaginative forum name"...or any other number of possibilities.

Is it likely that he was shouting something about my brakes? What would an experienced cyclist be likely to shout at some numpty from behind? I just can't see anything significant enough to warrant a shout.

To compound this issue I forgot to restart my Garmin for a mile or so after checking for this mystery mechanical!!

cougie    pirate
10/04/2015 at 13:38
He's got keen eyesight if he noticed that. Are they centred ? Just try the brakes on and see if one side hits first. If they're shimano there is usually a tiny allen bolt on top of the caliper that centres it.

QR lever on the wheel is done up ? I'd let someone know about that - but not about the brakes - I've never thought to look.
10/04/2015 at 17:03

Thanks Cougie, I checked them at roadside and seemed fine. Had a better check once home and again seemed OK. Nothing obvious anyway.

QR is done up too. Most odd. Ah well, it can't have been too major or he'd have stopped/slowed down to make sure I understood!!


Razor51    pirate
06/07/2015 at 14:32
Help required.
I am running Swalbe Luganos 700 x 23. I can remove these tyres without levers, last week I had a puncture so I fitted a new tube (Conti race 28) 700-23/700-25.but when I inflated it it forced the tyre off the rim. Any ideas why , are my tyres knackered?
06/07/2015 at 14:57

Was the tyre properly seated inside the rim before you began inflating?  I had the same thing happen and the tyre wasn't quite seated fully/properly to start with.  I think the flat tube was probably in the way somehow as a bit of kneading all the way round fixed it.

Razor51    pirate
06/07/2015 at 19:33

I,ll give it a go, Ta

07/07/2015 at 13:46

silly questions?


Anyone know what I can do with my old campag 8spd mavic open 4 CD rimmed wheels - specifically, can these run 23mm or 25mm tyres ?

currently on 18mm michelin racing tyres bought when lemond hadn't quite retired. but brand spanking new 20yrs old tyres.


where can I source campag record 8spd cassette, chain, durallier jockey and chainrings ? ( going to need to replace them soon - and makes sense to go from 52/42 ( 12-21 ) to something more forgiving ie.52-38 or 12-28. ? )



replacing the quill stem / scott DH bars / chorus ergo with modern equivalents ( and maybe record ergo - the bike was from the year before they came onto market  ). quill adaptor-deda anatomic bars-ergo from eBay- cables and tape

many thanks


PS Yes, its my original 12kg columbus slx campag 8spd workhorse that will suffice as training bike - its about time it had some use unless maintenance proves to be problematic



Edited: 07/07/2015 at 13:51
Cheerful Dave    pirate
07/07/2015 at 14:49

The rims would probably be OK with a 23mm tyre, but you might find you don't have enough clearance through the forks.

Campag 8 spd - wiggle have some cassettes, or look for Miche 8 speed ones which will work too.  8 speed chains are easy to find, with chainrings you might have a problem getting some with the right BCD - campag standards have changed over the years.

Replacing the quill can be done, either with an adaptor or replacing the forks altogether.  Although I'd guess the head tube is 1" which would limit choices somewhat.

To be honest though, by the time you've forked out for components to match the original quality, you'd have spent enough to get a very decent training bike new.  Unless you fancy the challenge of a restoration project (and why not?) then I'd be tempted to keep that one as a turbo bike and spend the cash on a new one.

Crooky-IronKnee    pirate
09/07/2015 at 10:38

Help needed

i was changing the cleats on my shoes and the top screw snapped leaving the thread in the shoe.

so what can I do if anything, will they be ok with just the 2 bottom screws or new shoes time

09/07/2015 at 10:48

use a drill to remove the screw. ( drill out the snapped thread part or drill a hole(s) sufficient to insert a small screwdriver and gain purchase to remove. a bit of d40 ). 

i anticipate you'd be ok, but the cleat would flex when climbing out of the saddle and that could screw your knees/ankle over time ( as you pull the foot up ) or suffer a mechanical failure resulting in nothing good.

09/07/2015 at 10:52

i have found an old 8spd cog set in a box in the loft ( where it was left a couple of decades ago ) - just need to find the alignment guide to build the cassette alignment.

chainrings are problematic - some alternatives on eBay but i need to remove and measure and check.

chain is easy. as is quill stem etc. total cost looks around £100-150. 

new bike would be my preference but if I did that, id  rather a variant on the race bike to share parts ( carbon 11spd ultegra ) so 11spd 105 maybe. - not going to be £150 though.

Cheerful Dave    pirate
09/07/2015 at 10:53

You could try & drill the screw out, or get a bike shop to try it for you.  Failing that, two screws will be fine most of the time if they're nice and tight, but you run the risk that at some point you'll twist your foot to get out and the cleat will stay where it is, so you can't release. 

If you're happy the cleat is it the right position, you could use a decent quantity of araldite in place of the front screw.  You won't be able to change the cleats again, but at least you won't run the risk of falling sideways at traffic lights.

Booo    pirate
09/07/2015 at 14:43

Glad I found this thread, as I have a question that is almost insane in its bicycling numptiness ... in fact its not my question at all, I am asking on behalf of a friend you understand.

I ... err .. my friend that is, was wondering, if its best to get tucked down in to as aero position as possible going in to a head wind, does the same still apply when (in that all too rare occurrence) you actually manage to get a tail wind, or would it be better to sit up and benefit from a greater 'push' from the wind ?

cougie    pirate
09/07/2015 at 15:26
I think it depends on the wind. In a headwind - yes you'll always be better aero unless your position restricts the power you put out.

If there's a honking tailwind then buy a lotto ticket that night and yes I'd sit up a bit and enjoy it.

If its only slight then I think you need to be a bit aero anyway.

I believe in Scandinavian countries cyclists have rigged up sails to make the most of tail winds - but that could be an urban myth.
Cheerful Dave    pirate
09/07/2015 at 15:34

With the wind directly behind, if your friend is cycling faster than the wind speed then the net effect is still a headwind, so best to be aero.  If he's going slower, then sitting up would help.  So if he's riding at 20mph, with a 15mph wind from behind, the net effect to him is a 5mph headwind.  When he turns round and rides at the same speed into the wind, the air will be going past him at 25mph, so a lot more drag.

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