Numpty IM Bike Thread

Bike ponces only welcome if they don't speak in tongues

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28/06/2013 at 09:32

square taper BB - make sure it's an English thread, not Italian; get the right bracket width; and make sure the taper is the right length (depends on chainring setup)

best way to check is to take chaingrings off and measure BB width and overall width and then go look for a new one.  ime - the more you pay, the longer it will last.  

you might be able to replace headset bearings with a sealed unit but that will depend on the tubing but I would think on rthat bike you should be OK - LBS would be best people to advise though.   again, higher the price, the better quality - Chris King if you can afford it 

28/06/2013 at 09:41

No you need the same taper, same width and same thread for the bottom bracket.  

For Scott it'll be English thread but you need to know the chainset to determine what bottom bracket you need.

Have yountried cleaning and greasing the headset - if that doesn't work I'd replace like with like as bearings are very cheap from bearing shops - not so cheap from some bike shops.   Not an expert on headsets/bearings but I doubt you can use sealed cartridge bearings without a whole new headset.

28/06/2013 at 09:42

Ffs it takes so long correcting all the typos on an ipad everything i post is a X-post!

28/06/2013 at 09:59

get an ipad blutooth keyboard - will keep you at the front of the peloton then....

JD.    pirate
06/07/2013 at 08:31

hi fb/pirates - wondering if you can recommend some good narrower summer tyres for teh mtb on the ridgeway?  current tyres are over two inches, heavy, great for winter but not for keeping up in summer with the mtb group.  so i'm hoping i can shed a bit of weight/rolling resistance on the wheels (and do some trianing too of course).

 

thanks

JD.
cougie    pirate
08/07/2013 at 17:04
JD ! How the devil are you !?

Not much idea on the tyres sorry - I've been running Schwalbe marathons on my cross bike instead of riding my MTB - bloody bombproof off road and still manageable on road.
08/07/2013 at 17:27

hi JD - long time no see fella...

size will depend on what rims you are running but a lot of standard MTB hoops will take a smaller size than 2+".  I doubt you'll be able to go as low as 1.5" which is generally the smallest MTB size but you might get away with a 1.75".   what are the wheel rims??

the other thing to look at is to go tubeless by adapting the wheels to use something like Stans NoTubes latex as that will drop the roling weight by a fair bit.  it works well - P has it on her MTB.  it's a bit of a faff to get it set up but when it's done it's fine and the wheels roll quicker.   but it will depend on the rim and you will probably need to get a different tyre better suited for this purposes - Schwalbe have a good range.

I'm putting USB tubeless hoops on my new MTB to keep the weight down but that's a complete new build

JD.    pirate
12/07/2013 at 10:04

all good here thanks Cougie, usual undertrained self, two happy (mostly) kids now, another on the way in October if all goes well.  you and yours all happy i hope?

thanks FB and sorry for the slow reply - finally got to check my rims, they just say SUN RIM on them and made in the USA - not so helpful.  The current tyres are Maxxis high roller 2.35.  is there a tyre you'd recommend?  tubeless sounds interesting though.

re tyres, would you recommend something like this?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/panaracer-fire-xc-pro-folding-mountain-bike-tyre/

would 1.8 be ok?  or better to go for the 2.1?  

 

thanks for your help

 

JD.
12/07/2013 at 10:57

don't know SUN rims but having checked their website they have a range and seem OK

if you're running 2.35s, then no wonder you're finding them slow! they have some seious volume in them so great in winter mud but slow on hardpack

I run those Panaracers on my full-sus Yeti - great all year round tyre with some serious grip, but aren't so fast on dry surfaces so wouldn't be my choice for dry surfaces.

you need to look at some tyres with less midline knobs on them for hardpack - something like Schwalbe Furious Fred Evolution or Michelin Wildracer as examples.  lots of similar out there but Schwalbe always get good ratings so would probaby be my pick - I used to run precursors of Wildracers (when they came in green) and loved them.

and go for folding ones - bit pricier but as they have kevlar beading, a bit stronger and slightly more puncture proof

I don't think you need to go for 1.8s - between 1.9 and 2.1 will be fine if you choose a tyre like I suggested - you'll be zipping along!

 

JD.    pirate
12/07/2013 at 15:49

excellent, thanks for the comprehensive advice.  glad to hear the tyres may be playing at least a small part in me getting dropped on the weekly ride  i'll go and do some shopping.

 

JD.
12/07/2013 at 16:55

let us know what you go for 

I've got some Hutchinson Python tubeless going onto my new build - looking forward to getting to grips with it soon.

http://www.hutchinsontires.com/en/catalogue-vtt.php?fiche=python-end-tlr.php&univers=5&pid=94

12/07/2013 at 23:16

Please advise, I have just fitted new wheels and tyres to my road bike. I put on a new cassette as well, 9 speed 11-25T as I currently have on it. Same chain as only 9 months old with not much riding this winter.  Put it all together and just doesn`t feel right.  Won`t go onto the last (smallest) cog and doesn`t feel smooth as if it`s not marrying up right. I have a Shimano Sora rear derailleur and the `Wiggle` reviews said the cassette (Shimano HG50) would fit.  Am I making some schoolboy error.  I have never taken the rear wheel off and played around with the rear D before.  Tried taking off and puting back on a few times, but still the same.  Could just go to LBS, but feel I need to be able to do the basics in case i`m 20 miles from home and a problem occurs.   

OrangeCannon kona-6    pirate
13/07/2013 at 00:28

you have a yeti FB...... *jealous*

JD.    pirate
13/07/2013 at 07:53

FB - just wondering, with the Furious Fred's have you had any puncture issues?  Lack of puncture resistance is mentioned a few times in the tyre reviews.

i guess the ridgeway is all chalk so flint/punctures aren't so much of an issue.  i'd probably use slime tubes anyway so perhaps that would help reduce the puncture problem.

JD.
JD.    pirate
13/07/2013 at 08:36

Dreaming of Magic, just turn the barrel adjuster (just where the wire enters teh rear mech) a little.  that should do it.  if that doesn't work the limiter screws may need adjusting but i'd have thought tha'ts unlikely.

JD.
WhizKid    pirate
13/07/2013 at 09:16

To be honest dreaming of magic I think it's the limiter screws like JD said, when adjusting with them only turn a quarter turn a time adventually the derailleur will sit correctly, check its done correctly in the bike stand or whatever in all gears and with the chain in the big and small ring at the front as this can adjust the angle the chain can sit in accordance with the rear cassette.... Ideally the chain should be as straight as possible when riding anyway I.e. big ring at front smaller at back and small at front larger at the back..... Oh and take it for a test ride after too as adding strain is important !

13/07/2013 at 10:48

Ok, I have three screws above where the cable enters the rear D.  Two as part of the main body and one just above. Have tried turning the one nearest the cable about 2 turns each way, but no change.  Keep turning or is it the other screws?

 

WhizKid    pirate
13/07/2013 at 17:01

The 2 limiter screws are next too each other usually with H and L on the the one nearest the derailleur adjusts where the derailleur sits height wise

13/07/2013 at 17:51

Bingo!  Seems to be ok now. Half turn of the upper one did the trick. Haven`t tested on the road yet.

Many thanks for your help JD and WhizKid.

 

JD.    pirate
24/07/2013 at 21:18

Hi FB - I went for the cheap michelin wild race tyres in the end.  i've just done my standard 5 mile loop two minutes faster than the fastest i'd ever done it before!  not exactly scientific test but i've done the loop in the dry before when i was fitter last year.

Anyway, there's something wrong with the tyres i think.  they kind of kick as i'm going along (on a tarmac downhill at the end).  i noticed they sort of bulge in places.  is that ok?  seems a bit dodgy to me and i'm a little worried it'll contribute to me being thrown off at some point.

These are the ones i bought:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=104538

perhaps i should have gone for the reinforced ones.

 

 

JD.
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