well I was bound to ask a stupid question eventually
I have a turbo and I use it but my stupid question is do I need to have either a bike computer rigged to the rear wheel or a cadence gadget or something else. As up to now I have been just going by preceived effort. I don't even use dvds or internet sessions.
I just get on spin abit to warm up and then just use the gears to make it harder or easier for a set time of 40 mins to an hour.
I know loads of you guys use turbo mahines so what should I be doing to get the best use of the blimming thing
oh and I don't have much of a budget so can't afford expensive things
You don't NEED to, but you may WANT to. It depends whether you are happy with RPE or whether you want facts and figures and want to push yourself
I would think though that you would get more benefit out of turbo sessions if there was some element of 'coaching' whether that be a gadget/DVD/or internet programme
It may help someone more experienced than i to know what your targets are? Sportive? Tri? If Tri what distance?
Yep what Schmunk's said.
Running used to involve going running and not knowing how far you had gone other than by RPE and time ran. Occaisionly you would measure a course in the car or on a bike and use that as a test course. You effectively have the same situation with your turbo.
It isn't wrong but you may be able to train more scientifically and less subjectively. A HR monitor would at least allow you to train by heart rate and some would suggest this is the best way anyway. Get into your HR zone and push enough to stay within desired zone. Mentally quite tough.
Soemthing that might give you a distance equivalent could be considered. If you have Garmin 310XT or other simialr watch/gadget you can fit a cadence thing GSC10? and it will give you speed/distance from a spoke magnet and cadence from a crank arm magnet. If you have the watch the cadence sensor thing is quite cheap and worth getting. If you haven't got a suitable watch it will be a more expenisve purchase.
A cheap bike computer will do the same for distance/speed.
Note that neither are true road speed unless your turbo perfectly matches the resitance of the road/wind/air resistance. But they are a consistent point of reference for a given resitance.
I have a garmin 305 and I think it does cadence if I buy a gadget thingybob for cadence. I'll look into the price
I didn't even think about wearing my HRM whilst on the turbo. so thats a start, I guess I should look ont tinternet for some HR turbo sessions.
look for peter read blue book or black book on t'internet
HRT monitor is an essential. cadence more so than speed - spinning is what they all preach in the pro cycling world. speed is just a factor of spinning and gears
Buy the cadence gadget. Cadence is everything.
If pushed financially, count your cadence for 15 seconds then multiply by 4.
Rough guide, cadence 75-80 for IM, 80-85 for general riding, about 90 for getting a bit of a shift on, 100 for pushing it. more for those silly moments when you think you are a pro.
Why a low cadence for IM, DB? I know Chrissie races at a low cadence but she's rare among the pros - my legs are much better for the run if I've kept them spinning a bit more through the bike.
I think cadence is a personal thing and not that important - but whatever works for an individual. Cadence in a given gear would be useful as it's a consistent measure of effort.
Lard - Blue Book ! I've got a copy if anyone wants to borrow it. I don't think there's much in it you couldn't get from 30 minutes searching on the internet mind you. You only really need a couple of sessions for TT/Tri don't you - some extended intervals and some shorter ones.
If you don't have a turbo with power I'd use heart rate coupled with speed - heart rate gives you an idea of what level you are working at and speed is more consistent over a session and doesn't lag behind effort like HR does.
TG - get yourself a Cateye Strada Double wireless bike computer for the bike. it takes cadence and speed off the rear wheel so when you slap the bike on the turbo, you'll still get these functions. and if you use a separate turbo wheel all you need to do is put a magnet on it to use the sensors.
it's your call then as to how you use the computer.
Wiggle are knocking it out for £72 but it's cheaper if you shop around - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cateye-strada-double-wireless-cycle-computer/. you can get cheaper versions if you down the wired route but that just become messy imho
Dustboy why low cadence for IM.....I rode to cadence and aimed for 90-95 as that's how I've been coached. Not saying I always hit it but Always aim for high cadence whatever the distance of a race.
I think cadence is very personal. I ride with a low cadence, for a year I worked on getting it higher but just ended up getting slower. I don't bother monitoring it now.
I always use a HRM when on the turbo, otherwise I'm useless at judging my effort and end up just cruising.
If you have an iPhone 4s you can get the Wahoo Fitness BlueSC which sends cadence & speed via bluetooth. They do an HR strap too. They are both a little pricey considering you don't get a headset but it does mean you can try different apps to see which one you prefer and you can send all the data to lots of different online resources.
you've got to have a plan to improve. you;ve got to know speed and cadence (and power if you are richer).
garmin do a GSC10 which will tell your garmin watch your rear wheel speed and cadence. Set your reistance and tyre pressures and do not change them. then build your sessions around speed and cadence..it's a big topic but you need a plan and some metrics to improve as i said.
Better 5k, Duathlon and Triathlon
Goals: 82% Age Graded 5k and an open water Triathlon.
Why cadence ?
all the cycling press/books/guides advocate pedal stroke efficiency at cadence around 90-100. gets you spinning so the legs arent working so hard muscle wise?
rear wheel speed is a nice to have. hrt and cadence are the benchmark. power is nice - i gather if you have a calibrated turbo, trainerroad.com can figure out your wattage from a ant+ cadence sensor.
i was thinking to rent a powermeter come april for 4 months - but will need to read the book first and see what the point is. - it might be usefull for surviving the bike without killing my run in outlaw.
It was more a rhetorical question - I wouldn't agree cadence measurement is that important let alone the benchmark.
Cadence might be useful in preserving the legs if you are running after the bike - I understand the theory - even then though is it really proven - Chrissie W rides with a relatively low cadence. I think the idea that higher cadences are better really comes from road and track racing where there are real advantages in being able to spin a gear fast - though not so much on the road as in the past when 11 sprockets didn't exist.
Can I jump in with another turbo question?
Does it matter what bike I use? I currently have my old road bike set up on the turbo and I'm attempting #turbovember. Would I be better haveing the tt bike set up instead, or shall I turbo for now on the current set up and switch bikes when the Fink outlaw plan cuts in during December? Or should I just turbo on the old road bike full stop?
I find turboing for an extented time in a TT position bloody uncomfortable when compard to doing it on the road. I don't know why that is - maybe just the continued fixed position and no variety underwheel - but it is, so I always use the road bike on the turbo. by all means try the TT bike on the turbo to see how you get on but my preference is roadie all the way on the turbo
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