Tubs or Tubeless tyre questions

Ultra cougie wrote (see)

I think I've just been unlucky really  - but nowadays normal tyres are so good and so reliable - that I really cant see much point in tubs. I think even the World TT champ Tony Martin rides normal tyres to win.  So if its good enough for him ?

Yep. Conti clinchers for 2011 Worlds, then the same for the German National TT champs. This year he switched to Specialized but stayed on clinchers.

The argument at the pro level isn't about practicalilty per se, as they swap the wheel if there's a problem during the race, and the rider doesn't have to change a tyre all day. With top clinchers now equalling the rolling resistance of tubs, the reason they're beginning to see an edge is flexibility - if Martin turns up on the day of a race and decides that he'd rather ride a 23, the mechanic can swap it out before he races, rather than rely on having many sets of wheels to give the same options. You're not to change your mind if you only have one wheelset and must freshly glue some different tubbies on...

I don't know that you could say clinchers have the edge for the pros - the vast majority still ride tubs and for TTs I'd have thought more.

The main reason for us (not pros) to ride tubulars is that carbon clincher rims are inherently weaker than tubular rims - if you are paying a grand plus for a set of wheels it's nice if they don't crack when you hit a pot hole or puncture and if they are race day wheels a puncture probably means game over anyway. 

In cyclocross of course you can run lower pressures with a tubular than a clincher.   

I know that the tests show the best clinchers have rolling resistance as low or lower than a tubular too but lots of people will still claim a tub rolls or corners that little bit better - personally I'm not convinced I could tell one way or the other.   

Old frame (early 80's) so I can't find new wheels with thin enough spindles to fit the older narrower forks.

I'm suer they must be out there but I have no idea how to meause for what I need or the right terminology to search for.

There's no labels on the current wheels to guide me either.

I like my tubs not feeling enclined to change yet, but that may change with winter rides. Current tubs were £15 each so not expensive really.

FB thanksf or the link I might invest in those.

AB - have you spoken to a decent LBS about this??  

sounds like it's a good time to get a new bike......

Ha discovery I have Mavic GP4 rims which you can still buy. Hmm now what are the spindles. This is a complete voyage of discovery !

If possible I really want to modernise the ancient one and keep her. The frame is just back from respray.

Before

After 

Mates rates so colour choice was limited, I'm very pleased with the results.

Narrower forks ? Cant say i've noticed ? Forks are pretty bendy though ? Has hub width changed at all ?

I used to have Mavic GP4's for my tubs back in the day. Very decent rim. 

What tubing is that ?

Narrower forks??  You don't possibly mean narrower spacing on the rear stays do you?  If the frame's early 80's vintage (6-speed on the back??) it probably has something like 126mm spacing, compared to modern-day standard 130mm, which would affect rear wheel compatibility, but front is probably the same at 100mm.

if that's a steel frame, you can probably bend the stays and forks to take a wider hub without compromising the frame strength.  bit more difficult with alu as it can be prone to cracking or losing it's strength.   again the LBS should be able to advise.

I was thinking Ali meant the wheels wouldn't fit in the dropouts rather than the spacing being wrong - but looks like they mean the spacing.  

Best thing is look out for a cycle jumble and pick up a set of used wheels - any 5,6,7 speed should fit shouldn't they ? - wider spacing came in with 8 speed - not sure about the mech working with them though if it's indexed so might be best to stick to the same as it has already.   Might be worth checking if you have 700c or 27 inch wheels too as there used to be a difference in wheel diameter - think the UK had a different standard to most of the continent.