Tyre pressures

21 to 36 of 36 messages
PSC    pirate
30/09/2012 at 11:44

don't go to 80 bar - I was pulling your leg - sorry about that!  It will be PSI.  You are more likely to puncture at lower pressures and you will also be working harder too as some of your energy is being absorbed by the squishyness of the tyre..  Hybrid tyres do run at lower pressures, and MTB tyres lower still.  But road tyres need the air in them to work properly.  If you look on the side of the tyre it will probably say something like "max pressure 140 psi".

What sort of pump is it... the red line maybe there to stop someone pumping their air bed up too hard!! 

And don't be apologetic for being a bike numpty..  we all were once excpet perhaps a few on here who I reckon were concieved on bikes and therefore know lots about sprockets and stuff. 

Edited: 30/09/2012 at 11:45
Cortina5    pirate
30/09/2012 at 11:52

If their 650s then 80psi may be all that is needed. There is alot less volume in a 650 than a 700.

What does it say on the side of the tyre for pressure range?

30/09/2012 at 12:04
I'm pretty sure I do mine to 80 something as well (I'm a bike numpty). I think I did once check the figures on the tyre. I have no idea what 650 vs 700 means so no idea what I have. Like Pixie, mine are very hard and it's an effort to get them to that.

I'm now intrigued so I'm going to go out and check...
PSC    pirate
30/09/2012 at 12:11

interesting article on Sheldon Brown's site... HERE which would indicate that tyre width is more important than wheel diameter.. What is clear is the relationship between pressure and rider weight...  same as a car.  A heavily loaded car needs mre air in the tyres!

The pump looks fine Pix, but you will probably find that the grey bezel bit outside the dial with the red arrow on it will rotate so that you can use it as an indicator of where you want your pressure to be. 

30/09/2012 at 12:21
Ooooh, it says min 100 max 120. Oops. Not sure where I got 80 from.
cougie    pirate
30/09/2012 at 13:51
My old vredesteins were rated to 140 psi but I got a lot of punctures.
Now I use contis at about 95 and (touch wood) can't remember the last time I had a p*ncture. Amazing tyres.
ChallengeCheggers    pirate
30/09/2012 at 18:31

I use Conti GP4000s's or Gatorskins and they're always pumped up to 120psi

meface    pirate
30/09/2012 at 21:15

Pixie,

650 wheels are smaller than 700s. If you tried to fit 700s they wouldn't fit - so don't do it. We are talking distance from axle to edge not tyre width here.

115-120 for Conti GPs for me as I am lardy. Training tyres a little less and also tend to do a about 5PSI less on the front.

Please remember that the the valve is non-return on the tyre so unless you knock the valve you won't lose any. What will rush out is all the air in the pump also at 110 PSI.

M.eface

Bouncing Barlist    pirate
30/09/2012 at 22:20

I normally pump my clinchers (Continental Gatorskins) to 110 (sometimes up to 120) on the back, slightly less on the front, in the winter maybe 10 less.  Its worth checking pressures every week as they'll bleed air, maybe loosing 10 PSI in a week.

Edited: 30/09/2012 at 22:20
30/09/2012 at 22:36
Thanks meface, that makes sense about the air in the pump rushing out, i think I will increase the pressure in mine a bit before next ride as I'm lardy too,
01/10/2012 at 09:56
IronCat5 in the Hat wrote (see)

If their 650s then 80psi may be all that is needed. There is alot less volume in a 650 than a 700.

What does it say on the side of the tyre for pressure range?

cat - you are an engineer, no??  then you should know that volume does not equate to pressure.  so tyre size has no meaning here - you need the same pressure irrespective of size.

Cortina5    pirate
01/10/2012 at 10:40

Thanks FB - I was having a thick day.

I'll now say that as 650 has a smaller volume they'll need a higher pressure. Volume is related to area.

Pressure = Force / Area.

Force (rider + bike weight) is a constant here, so as the internal Area of the tyre increases (say from 700x23C to 700x25C) the Pressure required to support the Force reduces.

By the same token as you reduce the area of the tyre (650x23C) then the pressure must increase for a given force.

Your MTB tyres support your weight the same your road bike tyres, but at a lower pressure. The volume of the tyre is bigger. Perhaps my explanation/understanding is amiss, but the theory is sound.

 

 

01/10/2012 at 11:22

you run MTB tyres at lower pressure for grip off-road - it has little to do with support.  there's nothing to stop you running them much higher but a) it's bloody hard work pumping that volume up, and b) they would be skipping and jumping all over the place on the knobbies.   

Dustboy    pirate
01/10/2012 at 11:45

100 normal, 110 race, 120 smooth race, 90 if my arse is sore or in winter.

Don't they make a loud bang if one goes off! Especially indoors in front of the telly when the wife is asleep on the sofa. Though it was very funny!

01/10/2012 at 12:05

I think it is because of width of tyre and relative footprint/ area in contact with the road. A thin racing tyre needs higher pressure than a mtb tyre because of the area supporting the rider. (Something like comparing a stiletto heel with a trainer heel, the first needs to be harder because of a smaller area carrying the weight). Follow what is on the side of the tyre and you can't really go wrong.

On the bit about unscrewing valves and running the wrong pressure I did both of these, but then gained a couple of free mph when I worked out what I was doing wrong!

01/10/2012 at 14:25

100 on 25mm tyres and 110 on my 23mm tyres.

Bought a track pump for it after spending an entire day with my Dad and Hubby saying you could get them to that pressure with hand pump or electric pump.

Once disproved a late dash to Halfords and my point was proven.

Men

Next is to convince them as to how the electric circuits in my house work.


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