Another thing to understand about mountaineering or climbing safety, is that history has a way of delivering very swift judgments on people.
Accidents are not that uncommon, and bad situations are not that uncommon, and people who advocate less stringent safety measures often learn the hard way, with more or less serious consequences.
When something goes badly wrong, the person arguing for the tougher safety measures is always on the right end of the argument, and always walks away with a clear conscience.
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Ben Davies 15
